What irons to play?

under80

Tin Cup swing tingel
Joined
May 14, 2012
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Location
Augusta, GA
Handicap
7.6 GHIN
I'm a mid USGA handicap, I play a cavity back club now. I think I'm a pretty good ball striker, and have been hitting forged TM MB clubs as of late. I seam to hit forged better on the Launch monitor then my current clubs. My worriers are its a hefty price increase to go that way and I'm getting new clubs. How much of a difference is it on the course from the launch monitor?
Is a 5-6 GHIN, 9-10 USGA handicap good enough to move up to a forged club? I feel more Confident and have a better baby draw with the forged club that I can't seam to get with the cavity backs I'm hitting now! I know it's a personal choice I would like to hear from people who have made the transition to or back to cavity from forged! Did it make a big difference? Your thought please, I tried to search but couldn't find anything that helped!
 
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Are a mid cap or a 5-6? Because a club is forged or cast has no affect on how forgiving or difficult it is to hit.
 
! That's my GHIN, but my USGA goes up and down, I'm a 9-10 USGA.
 
So your saying just go with what ever feels better?
 
So your saying just go with what ever feels better?

Yes? I'm still confused by your first post. Forged refers to how the iron is made. It has 0 affect on how the irons performs.
 
Okay, the TaylorMade MB are what I'm referring to!
 
I must have deleted that part and not put it back in the post, my bad!
 
A lot fo people have gone from a CB style (current) to a muscle back or blade style (Taylormade MB) with no issues and some have trouble making the transition. It just really comes down to the numbers. See if you can't get both on a simulator and see what produces the best numbers for your game.
 
Try everything and get fit for what feels right in your hands, IMHO the ping i20 is a good starting point.
 
See if you can't get both on a simulator and see what produces the best numbers for your game.[/QUOTE]

Thank ghost, I have done that, need to get them out on the course.
 
Handicap has nothing to do with what clubs to play. I easily could drop 10 strokes (not an exageration) from hitting the ball a consisten 275-285 yards, but until I get taller that won't happen (I'm a teenager so I will get taller). Lots of people are the handicap they are because of short game. I think boss is spot-on. Get the clubs you hit best (and can afford). Getting fit is a great idea and the I20s are a great staring point. I hit a Nike pro-combo better than a burner 2.0. Not further, but better. The main point is though, hit the clubs and have not bias to who the club is geared towards. If durability is a problem with the TM MB's (good choice BTW) just get some headcovers and that will eliminate bag chatter. Get what's right for you without bias. Play well and happy hackin'
 
Okay just so everyone knows, I'm wanting to know who's made the transition from cavity backs to blades, did it have a major effect on their game or not, and did they go back? I thank everyone for chiming in but those are my question I'm pondering, not types, or fittings. I hit all types and had a fitting most of those guys have an agenda during a fitting.
 
Check out the Wilson Staff FG V2 forged clubs if I had the money that's what I would get. Hit them at a store with kbs tour 90 stiff's awesome Iron's and cost less than most forged clubs.
 
I have a mid handicap and played with the Calaway X-16 steel rifle shaft irons. A few years ago I read about forged irons and after a fairly extensive research I settled on buying used CB1002 Muira's. I am very happy with the results. If you are a good ball hitter, they are a joy to play. I have heard the Mizuno 58's are also good forged irons. Cavity back versus blades is an individual preference at least at the casual golfer level.
 
Unless you work the ball (left to right, right to left, and high/low) alot, I recommend getting something with at least a small cavity. I played college golf and used Mizuno MP-29, but I recently switched to the Cobra S3 Pro. You won't notice a ton of difference on the short irons, but I sure appreciate the forgiveness of the new long irons. Your handicap may be where it is for a variety of reasons, but unless you hit the ball in the dead center of the club 99% of the time, why make the game harder? If you like the offset, or lack thereof on the Taylormade MB irons, you can still get that same look with a thin cavity. What I did was the inverse of what you asked, since I went from blades to cavity, but I am glad I did.
 
I switched from Titleist AP2 to Wilson Tour FG62 (muscle back) last sept and got 20-30 rounds. I will not be going back anytime soon. My scores where lower because I consistently hit better shots.
 
you could always try this before financialy diving in for a set. Buy one club, perhaps a 7i or whatever and use it in place of your existing 7 whenever the opportunity normally presents intself. Perhaps try this with 2 different clubs, maybe the 7 and a pw perhaps. Unless your in a rush, do this for several rounds or enough times to determine wether or not it is worth making the move for a whole set. You might waste the money but at least you dont have to go for a whole set and waste much much more if it doesnt work out. If it does work out, then you already have one or two of the clubs.
 
Okay just so everyone knows, I'm wanting to know who's made the transition from cavity backs to blades, did it have a major effect on their game or not, and did they go back? I thank everyone for chiming in but those are my question I'm pondering, not types, or fittings. I hit all types and had a fitting most of those guys have an agenda during a fitting.

I went from PING G10's to PING S58's and go back and forth from them to Mizzy MP68's.
G10 to S58 was super easy. I actually hit my 58's better than the G10's and they are considered pings Blade. I wouldn't call them that but thats what "they" say.
MP68's I'm hot and cold with. I posted my top 3 best rounds with them but on my off days I am REALLY off and wish I had my 58's with me.
The one major effect the changes had for me is shot dispersion. I found with SGI's it was super loose and had no sort of grouping. With either the S58's or the 68's its a much tighter dispersion and I can attack the pin. Kind of like a shotgun to a rifle. I will never go back to a SGI shovel like the G10's but I have been lately thinking of going back to a more GI club that has the least offset as possible. I just want my blowup days to be a little less of a blowup.
 
Burner 2.0 with Rifle, only way to go
 
Burner 2.0 with Rifle, only way to go
I will agree with this. If you want a forged version you can go with the TP CB's, and if you want to up the difficulty you can go with the MC's or CB's. If none of those feel right Id go with the Amps or Amp forged.
 
I will agree with this. If you want a forged version you can go with the TP CB's, and if you want to up the difficulty you can go with the MC's or CB's. If none of those feel right Id go with the Amps or Amp forged.

But the TP CBs were not 100% forged only the faces were. The rest of the club was cast.
 
But the TP CBs were not 100% forged only the faces were. The rest of the club was cast.
Yes true but it makes a very good blend. My point was that it is a great place to start with your search because if you wish to go cast you can to with the burners or r11's but if you want a forged club you can pick your poison all the way down to the MB's. They are not for everyone but I feel they allow you to make picks between sets on the basis of your skills and club style preferences.
 
Unless you work the ball (left to right, right to left, and high/low) alot, I recommend getting something with at least a small cavity. I played college golf and used Mizuno MP-29, but I recently switched to the Cobra S3 Pro. You won't notice a ton of difference on the short irons, but I sure appreciate the forgiveness of the new long irons. Your handicap may be where it is for a variety of reasons, but unless you hit the ball in the dead center of the club 99% of the time, why make the game harder? If you like the offset, or lack thereof on the Taylormade MB irons, you can still get that same look with a thin cavity. What I did was the inverse of what you asked, since I went from blades to cavity, but I am glad I did.

totally agree with this.. i went from VR full cavity's to a mb/mc combo set, and now back to cavity backs.
 
A debate between cast or forged clubs is something I don't enjoy.

I enjoy yelling about it, via tapatalk
 
Check out the Wilson Staff FG V2 forged clubs if I had the money that's what I would get. Hit them at a store with kbs tour 90 stiff's awesome Iron's and cost less than most forged clubs.
I went from theCi9 irons to the Staff FG Tour V2's and had an immediate improvement in my game.Thinking that with the next Staff blade incarnation I might change again.I feel that the forged clubs with less offset give me more control of the trajectory(high-low,left-right).
 
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