When does the ball matter?

[vFLASHv]

I'm on the "the ball matters" train. But just wanted to offer you advise on buying. If you find a ball that suits ur needs, don't feel like you have to buy new. When I first started I would buy used balls from lostgolfballs.com and would tried everything from E6-ProVs at a reasonable price. I used to see what was on sale and then try whatever that was. I would buy 4A quality and of a batch of 50, maybe 4 were unplayable.

Find something you like and have fun with the experience. If I were just starting today, I'd be buying my ChromeSofts from that website cuz I know how durable they are lol.

 

[Sox_Fan]

I will agree with others that the ball absolutely matters and will also recommend the on-line Bridgestone fitting tool. E-Series balls are very solid and will not break the bank.

 

[tequila4kapp]

The 50 Elite is a good ball for the price. W/S also makes the Duo which they say is a great fit for almost all amateurs. It's $19.99 for a dozen, and I'd recommend "splurging" for at least that price range.



As your game improves, you'll lose less and that money will stretch farther.

I will say,I really do think the new e6 does help with ball flight, and is worth the price. The Academy here in SC currently has the new yellows for sale for under $15/dozen.

Solid advice

 

[tequila4kapp]

My question is how much difference...marginal, is it even noticeable to most high handicappers who don't have a consistent swing or miss? I know I've noticed better spin with some and whether they felt soft or like a rock but that's about it. It would be fun to have a blind test (no logos) with a wide range of balls and see if golfers could guess which is which.

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Within each category or class of ball (distance balls, premium balls), you may not be able to tell a difference right away. I think you would immediately tell the difference in feel from one of the cheap distance balls and a softer compression ball like a Wilson Duo. I think you will be able to pretty immediately tell that the e6 is straighter and the e7 flies higher. When I was at the OP's stage I was really surprised how different balls could be. Up to that point I figured everything was the same.

 

[moosejaa]

Go through their Bfit program online. Its excellent.

Done, says an e6, but I still question how the shot shape and shot trajectory plays into the fitting calculation for someone that is inconsistent on both good and bad shots.

 

[ntanygd760]

Done, says an e6, but I still question how the shot shape and shot trajectory plays into the fitting calculation for someone that is inconsistent on both good and bad shots.

Don't worry about it too much. If you see a drastic change as you become consistent just do it again and see if you should change.

I also hadn't done one in a while. It says to switch from 330RX to the 330S which I was planning on doing anyways.

 

[xhail]

Ton of good offering now from many manufacturers for under $30. Also can find good 2fer deals that go around at the beginning and end of the seasons

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[Wyzyguy]

The ball fitting is a great idea. Around the greens is important to. Having a decent short game is attainable by just about every golfer. The spin & check #'s on rock hard balls are not great for shots from around the green. Maybe start practicing around the greens with a premium ball and slowly work them into your bag.

 

[Den60]

Count me among those who love the Bridgestone balls. Their online fitting program is pretty darned good, even if you don't have hard numbers to put in. You just need to know relatively how far you hit your driver, what your trajectory is and whether you hit left, right or straight. Bridgestone balls won't break the bank but getting into the E series is going to cost you more than $15 (unless you find a deal somewhere). Oh, occasionally I have used their on-line fitting and was told I needed a ball that definitely wouldn't be right for me (in that case, the B330). I need the B330RX due to my lower swing speed.

Also being a 29 hdcp I expect that you likely could have a better short game. You want a ball that has a good feel around the green for that.

 

[DFinch]

It depends on the firmness of your course. The balls you've tried that you listed are reasonable balls for a 29 handicap (Noodle, Elite 50, PD Soft, Chrome Soft) as long as you're not bouncing them over greens due to firm conditions.

Almost all golf balls are lower spin off driver these days. Spin separation (low spin driver, high spin wedges) and distance with soft feel have been the largest technological advancements. Not everyone, or every course condition, needs high wedge spin and you typically need it less the higher your handicap.

Do you typically come up short with your approach shots? If so, higher spin is going to hurt you. Are courses very firm in your area? If so, higher spin may help you. You have to evaluate how the ball responds to your swing (especially approach shots and short game) and determine if better spin will help or hurt you.

The best player in my club shot a 68 with a pink lady's distance ball in the middle of summer after losing a bet. My tournament ball is the Snell MTB or the ProV1x, but in my bag I have a random mix of old or found balls and this time of year in the PacNW (soft) I can play anything without a significant impact on my scoring. The differences are subtle as long as the ball is reasonably soft feeling, and the better you are the more you can bring out the unique characteristics of the ball.

As a 29, the major difference you'll notice is in your wallet.

 

[rollin]

Also being a 29 hdcp I expect that you likely could have a better short game. You want a ball that has a good feel around the green for that.

While this assumption is probably true, I would also assume a 29 capper also is not making his way towards the hole in a respectable amount of strokes either. One does need to keep the ball in play and moving forward in a respectable manor in order to score well too. One cant be hitting 4, or 5 or whatever and not yet be even near enough the green. This is why I mention (if this is the case too) that the ball may not necessarily be of a big concern just quite yet. But thats just me.

 

[Annhl8rX]

While this assumption is probably true, I would also assume a 29 capper also is not making his way towards the hole in a respectable amount of strokes either. One does need to keep the ball in play and moving forward in a respectable manor in order to score well too. One cant be hitting 4, or 5 or whatever and not yet be even near enough the green. This is why I mention (if this is the case too) that the ball may not necessarily be of a big concern just quite yet. But thats just me.

The short game is by far my biggest weakness. It's just atrocious. I'm clueless from about 80 yards and in.

 

[Badger_Golfer]

IMO, the only time the ball matters is around the green, say 100 yards and in. Off the driver, there is little difference from a cheap ball to a tour ball but around the green there is a HUGE difference.

 

[JB]

The driver facts say otherwise and it's up to a 10 yard distance for players getting fit on average.

And according to spin numbers the opposite is true in that the most violent impact has the greatest difference where as spin numbers are similar across the board.

 

[Den60]

The short game is by far my biggest weakness. It's just atrocious. I'm clueless from about 80 yards and in.

Highly recommend a short game lesson. Also, if you have issues with distance control Dave Pelz suggest practicing with full swings, half swings, and quarter swings with all your wedges and actually putting a sticker on the shaft for your distances for all three on each wedge.

 

[ntanygd760]

So true, I found the biggest distance gain going from a hard crappy ball to a 330RX was in my hybrid. Gained about 8 yards. Not a ton in driver distance. Assume this is because my swing is just fast enough or was, with the driver but not fast enough with shorter clubs.

 

[emart2173]

Yup, I can go right, left, high and low. What Bridgestone ball should I use?



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Done, says an e6, but I still question how the shot shape and shot trajectory plays into the fitting calculation for someone that is inconsistent on both good and bad shots.

I was going to say e6. It will be the one that will reduce your side misses. Being able to compress the ball better will help with these.

 

[rollin]

IMO, the only time the ball matters is around the green, say 100 yards and in. Off the driver, there is little difference from a cheap ball to a tour ball but around the green there is a HUGE difference.

I would disagree. There are (and I have done some long term side by side comparisons with just a few balls) big enough differences to help shave or add strokes via the ball of choice in the mid and longer game throughout an entire round. Firstly, although not technically affecting ball flight, sound and feel off our clubs does play its role in our confidence and good feeling when we hit the ball. That in itself can help better ball striking in general. But also some given balls do fly straighter (to just enough degree) for an individual to help just enough to make a difference on long and medium range shots throughout the round and straighter also mean longer more often and that's besides some distance gains one may see with certain balls. Also, not everyone has the technique required to stop balls on the greens nor really gain from a ball better suited to do so. For many players (and within their current game) there can be much more to benefit from a ball that (for any reasons) helps them better make their way towards the greens from the tee on through vs what they would ever gain from a ball considered better for greens control. And also fwiw one does get accustomed to playing a ball with some roll out as well and has learned to use it well when around the greens.

 

[Annhl8rX]

Highly recommend a short game lesson. Also, if you have issues with distance control Dave Pelz suggest practicing with full swings, half swings, and quarter swings with all your wedges and actually putting a sticker on the shaft for your distances for all three on each wedge.

A short game lesson is definitely on my to-do list.

 

[InTheRough]

Bridgestone Online fitting: there is 1 golfer like me. And they recommend the Tour B330S.

And I wonder why I am baffling my pro at times.

 

[MSH134]

The ball definately matters you may feel that because of you handicap you don't need a good ball but go do a fitting and I promise you will see a difference

 

[deuce]

The short game is by far my biggest weakness. It's just atrocious. I'm clueless from about 80 yards and in.

When I've full swung my C200's I've been able to back up a 50 Elite from 100 yards out, so there is hope for the cheaper branded balls. Urethane covered balls will stop more quickly than a surlyn cover, but your swing is going to play a role as well. Plus, if you decide to play a bump-n-run approach around the green for the majority of your chips/pitches you can play that with a surlyn covered ball to great effect. The thing that will matter is, when you practice, you use the same ball you're going to game so you understand how your ball is going to perform when you're out on the course.

I went with the e6 because it does a couple of things very well: 1) its lower compression gives me greater distance; and 2) its construction gives me less spin and a straighter flight. Getting off the tee is important, and getting me into the proper yardage and in the short stuff helps not only my frame of mind, but my game as well. Also, since it's a ball-style I play often, I know what to expect on the greens. Sometimes it may roll further than I intended but that's almost always because of an error on my part (usually picking an iron longer than I needed).

 

[Agent Jay]

As others have said, it does matter. Bridgestone's online ball fitting process is the best, currently. Give that a try 1st and go from there.

 

[rollin]

The ball definately matters you may feel that because of you handicap you don't need a good ball but go do a fitting and I promise you will see a difference

I don't thnink its a matter of a "good" ball but actually a ball that's simply better for the person. I mean what exactly is "good" anyway? When people tend to say a "good ball" it generally implies misguided thought that its an expensive tour ball vs something else and I think is where many get fooled. Whatever ball works best to help the individual and his/her game is the only ball that is technically "good".

 

[ntanygd760]

When people say good they generally mean urethane.

I would imagine not a single LPGA player uses a surlyn ball and their swing speeds are in line with a lot of slower swinging amateurs. I could be wrong about no one using one but I doubt any of them do.