Adjusting Loft On Cast Irons Risky Business or Not?

radiman

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So, long story short, I am needing to add some spin to my iron shots. Was told that the best way to accomplish this would be a loft adjustment of 2 degrees.

I talk to my buddy who works at the local shop. Tell him what needs to be done and he's a little hesitant. Made a point to tell me that he wasn't sure that he'd be able to since they're cast. Said he'd try but that there was risk.

Anyhow, I stop in the shop and pull my 7 iron to get a baseline to see what the adjustment will do.

Anyways, we got the numbers. Put the 7 iron into the loft/lie machine. He gets the bar on and starts putting a ton of pressure on it. I can see that he's struggling to get the hosel to move. Can finally see the hosel start moving. He gets to a point that he can't really push anymore, he lets up and the hosel goes right back to where it was. He tried a good 5 times and basically didn't want to press any harder for fear of breaking the club. He said lie wouldn't be an issue. But, loft has been hit and miss for him through the years.

The pro at my club basically told me that he wouldn't even try because it wasn't forged.

Is adjusting Loft on a cast club really that risky? Or just flat out impossible with some clubs?

Keep in mind, I don't have a real club builder anywhere near me. These guys can do basic club maintenance and adjustments and that's about it.
 
When I first started reading I said to myself the club is gonna break. I would not do that or try that again.
 
2 degrees should not be much issue.
 
Edit: looks like JB answered the question.
 
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I forget where I saw it, but somebody posted a chart once showing manufacturer recommendations for bending cast clubs. I remember many of them basically saying "Can't do it", some with a max recommendation of 1 or 2 degrees, and some others saying "send back to manufacturer for modifications".

[ETA:] Found the chart from Golfworks - it's older so the Epic Forged aren't on there, but it should give you an idea of manufacturer recommendations:

 
2 degrees should not be much issue.
I wouldn't have thought. But, we couldn't even get 1 degree out of it. It just wouldn't budge. Possibly a better skilled hand or equipment would have better luck?

I admittedly don't know a whole heck of a lot on bending. So, I'm not sure if there are other methods beyond clamping it down in the machine and using a bar to move it.

Also, he was hesitant from the start. Maybe he was just a little gun shy and not putting enough force into it?
 
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@Jman is very knowledgeable with bending clubs from what I've read.

Another few thoughts....
Consider a golf ball change?
Lead tape on the head to get some more shaft deflection?
Just some ideas....
I'll be putting the CSX in play once it's available. See if that calms things down a bit.

The only problem I have is the gap in distance between my shortest and longest shots. I'm living in the lower end if the spin spectrum, which is what I'm used to seeing through the years.

I hit my 7 iron on their GC2 and was seeing crazy ball speed between 138-140 (highest being 142). Spin was just living in the low 5's though. We were dipping down to 4800, but the majority were 5100-5200. Could get it up a little more by hitting a cut. But, it's more of a me problem. I hit an Apex MB for comparison and could only get that to Max out at 6k with a cut. The draws were 5500-5600.
 
I wouldn't have thought. But, we couldn't even get 1 degree out of it. It just wouldn't budge. Possibly a better skilled hand or equipment would have better luck?

I admittedly don't know a whole heck of a lot on bending. So, I'm not sure if there are other methods beyond clamping it down in the machine and using a bar to move it.

Also, he was hesitant from the start. Maybe he was just a little gun shy and not putting enough force into it?

Im FOR not bending at all. That being said, @Jman @ddec and I bent a Callaway XR (which was a hard firm iron) 6 degrees before it broke. We dont recommend that, we were testing how far It could go, but I have bent nearly ever iron that has come out a couple of degrees with little issue. It can change the sole a bit, so I always say if there is another way, go for it.
 
Im FOR not bending at all. That being said, @Jman @ddec and I bent a Callaway XR (which was a hard firm iron) 6 degrees before it broke. We dont recommend that, we were testing how far It could go, but I have bent nearly ever iron that has come out a couple of degrees with little issue. It can change the sole a bit, so I always say if there is another way, go for it.
Yeah, if it’s not budging don’t force the bend imo, it’s just not worth it.
 
It shouldnt matter so much that they are cast, cast carbon steel clubs like Vokeys can still be bent. The issue would be more if they are stainless. With stainless not being as soft as carbon steel, you run the risk of them snapping if you go to bend them but only going 2 degrees I dont see it being a huge issue.
 
It shouldnt matter so much that they are cast, cast carbon steel clubs like Vokeys can still be bent. The issue would be more if they are stainless. With stainless not being as soft as carbon steel, you run the risk of them snapping if you go to bend them but only going 2 degrees I dont see it being a huge issue.
Yeah, I have no idea why it wouldn't budge. But, better to not trifle with it since it was being so stubborn.

Just surprised that we couldn't get anything out of it at all.
 
I’ve had the same set pings bent as much as 3 degrees both ways no problems
Did you do the bending? Wonder if it just takes more elbow grease with a cast club.
 
Yeah, I have no idea why it wouldn't budge. But, better to not trifle with it since it was being so stubborn.

Just surprised that we couldn't get anything out of it at all.
Yeah, thats stainless for ya. Its great in that its strong which allows them to make the metal in the clubface thin which gives the club more of a trampoline effect but its bad in that it can be difficult to bend.
Good call on the club tech for stopping before he snapped the hosel. It would be awful if he broke your new iron.
I would say that instead of trying to mess with the lofts, you may have to just go for the front edge and let the ball roll out a bit. I feel your pain. My Tommy Armour Atomics are the same way. I love the distance but it can be difficult to get the ball to stop on the greens sometimes.
 
It has been said, but method of manufacture matters less than materials used. What clubhead are you trying to have bent?

I've bent both forged and cast irons. It can be done.

Heat can help make metal more malleable, too.
 
That would have been something to see him cranking on that to try and get it to move. :oops:
 
Yeah, thats stainless for ya. Its great in that its strong which allows them to make the metal in the clubface thin which gives the club more of a trampoline effect but its bad in that it can be difficult to bend.
Good call on the club tech for stopping before he snapped the hosel. It would be awful if he broke your new iron.
I would say that instead of trying to mess with the lofts, you may have to just go for the front edge and let the ball roll out a bit. I feel your pain. My Tommy Armour Atomics are the same way. I love the distance but it can be difficult to get the ball to stop on the greens sometimes.
It hasn't been a matter of rolling out as much as flying a green, adjusting my expectations for that distance only to leave it short the next approach shot. I have plenty of gas in the tank to give up yards for a more consistent flight.
 
So, long story short, I am needing to add some spin to my iron shots. Was told that the best way to accomplish this would be a loft adjustment of 2 degrees.

I talk to my buddy who works at the local shop. Tell him what needs to be done and he's a little hesitant. Made a point to tell me that he wasn't sure that he'd be able to since they're cast. Said he'd try but that there was risk.

Anyhow, I stop in the shop and pull my 7 iron to get a baseline to see what the adjustment will do.

Anyways, we got the numbers. Put the 7 iron into the loft/lie machine. He gets the bar on and starts putting a ton of pressure on it. I can see that he's struggling to get the hosel to move. Can finally see the hosel start moving. He gets to a point that he can't really push anymore, he lets up and the hosel goes right back to where it was. He tried a good 5 times and basically didn't want to press any harder for fear of breaking the club. He said lie wouldn't be an issue. But, loft has been hit and miss for him through the years.

The pro at my club basically told me that he wouldn't even try because it wasn't forged.

Is adjusting Loft on a cast club really that risky? Or just flat out impossible with some clubs?

Keep in mind, I don't have a real club builder anywhere near me. These guys can do basic club maintenance and adjustments and that's about it.

I have had at least 25 sets of cast iron sets bent back when I was working on clubs. I had one hosel break out of all of them. Keep in mind that the bending technique from technician to technician varies due to their equipment. The metals used varies on cast clubs also. Some cast clubs will eventually find their way back to stock specs over time even though some people say that it is impossible. I am here to tell you that they do.

Here's a list from Maltby of clubs that they do not recommend bending.

 
So, long story short, I am needing to add some spin to my iron shots. Was told that the best way to accomplish this would be a loft adjustment of 2 degrees.

I talk to my buddy who works at the local shop. Tell him what needs to be done and he's a little hesitant. Made a point to tell me that he wasn't sure that he'd be able to since they're cast. Said he'd try but that there was risk.

Anyhow, I stop in the shop and pull my 7 iron to get a baseline to see what the adjustment will do.

Anyways, we got the numbers. Put the 7 iron into the loft/lie machine. He gets the bar on and starts putting a ton of pressure on it. I can see that he's struggling to get the hosel to move. Can finally see the hosel start moving. He gets to a point that he can't really push anymore, he lets up and the hosel goes right back to where it was. He tried a good 5 times and basically didn't want to press any harder for fear of breaking the club. He said lie wouldn't be an issue. But, loft has been hit and miss for him through the years.

The pro at my club basically told me that he wouldn't even try because it wasn't forged.

Is adjusting Loft on a cast club really that risky? Or just flat out impossible with some clubs?

Keep in mind, I don't have a real club builder anywhere near me. These guys can do basic club maintenance and adjustments and that's about it.

I forgot to add that Cast clubs bend easier with sudden force. Gradual pressure will just wear your ass out.
 
It hasn't been a matter of rolling out as much as flying a green, adjusting my expectations for that distance only to leave it short the next approach shot. I have plenty of gas in the tank to give up yards for a more consistent flight.
That's the same problem I have with my Atomics. Every now and then I will hit it 10-20 yards over the green and sometimes it will be right on the number and the swing and strike feels the same. Not sure if it's the lofts or the face but it's annoying to have a shot that is right on the flag but 20 yards long and not knowing why.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
I am not bending my clubs and risking a “whoops” moment!
That can be costly
 
I am not bending my clubs and risking a “whoops” moment!
That can be costly
I'd rather be in control than give them so someone I don't trust.
 
You could always give that Mizuno RB or RTB(?) ball a try. One of those is supposed to be really high spin.
 
My friend, a club builder who has all the latest equipment knows what he can bend, what he cannot bend and those in the “risky” category. He has told me before, if risky, then there is no guarantee and he won’t be responsible. He has over the years, unfortunately had a few break knowing full well there was risk, some are just not meant to be bent.
 
With the proper application of heat you can get them to bend. Unfortunately I'd imagine you would then have to reshaft because the epoxy was burned out. And there would be the potential for stress cracking... <-- all this I learned from watching forged in fire so... it may not help.

Can you send the irons back to the manufacturer to have them adjust the loft?

Or better yet, time for new irons right? (y)
Unless they're new in which case I don't know...
 
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