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USAF Ret in Wis

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How hard is it get the ferrules back in place on these irons?
EE452BCD-2F4C-4F2C-BE29-35A48AE21A22.jpeg
 

-CRW-

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PXG’s?
 

Gyro25

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I think it's like a heat gun, and you'll need to dab in some new epoxy to hold it. I'm not a club builder but pretty sure I read that somewhere
 

Misike

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I had that happen once and just used some epoxy and slid the it back down. That did the trick for me.
 

formula8

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No problem. If you can't force them back try running them under hot water for like 10 seconds. Dry them real quick, add a drop of epoxy or super glue and push them back.
 

Fathead1911

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Usually they can just be slid with some force by hand. If not, warm water or a warm washcloth will usually do the trick. If not, hairdryer or heat gun.

I also add a touch of epoxy with a toothpick to try to keep them in place.
 

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If they are PXG’s I couldn’t get any of the above recommendations to work. The problem is they install .355 shafts in .370 hosels and use collared ferrules to center the shafts. The collared ferrules don’t want to slide back down into the hosel. It’s not the same as just heating a standard ferrule that is only sliding up and down the shaft, as opposed to into the hosel.
 

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yes. 0311s
I ended up having my Gen 1 0311T’s rebuilt by a boutique fitter near me. I don’t know if they used collared ferrules then, but they looked different and much better.

My irons lost the paint on most of the numbers on the soles so I ended up using a dental pick to clean out all of the paint. Judging by your heads, it looks like you have the same issue. I ended up selling mine back in Jan/Feb.
 

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If they are PXG’s I couldn’t get any of the above recommendations to work. The problem is they install .355 shafts in .370 hosels and use collared ferrules to center the shafts. The collared ferrules don’t want to slide back down into the hosel. It’s not the same as just heating a standard ferrule that is only sliding up and down the shaft, as opposed to into the hosel.
I kinda doubt(could be wrong) that they used 355 in 370 hosel.
Some hosels are just under cut like that. My Callaways are.
They're shafted with 370's and are collard.

It's been my experience that if a ferrule fits too snug on the shaft at installation, you will have sliding issues because the epoxy gets wiped off.
I have been sanding mine to a loose slide fit. That way the epoxy maintains a film and haven't had that problem.

I haven't tried it, but I think I would try real thin superglue. It'll wick into it.
 

aljaklaw

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heat and force down, easiest way is using an adjustable wrench with the teeth wrapped in tape

of course this is assuming it is the ferrules sliding up and not the clubheads sliding down
 

USAF Ret in Wis

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PXG said they will send me a pre-paid label to ship them back to get fixed

thanks for all the suggestions :drinks:
 

NEhomer

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PXG said they will send me a pre-paid label to ship them back to get fixed

thanks for all the suggestions :drinks:
This was my very first thought. I would expect PXG to fix or replace them. Bummer to be without your clubs though....hope it's a fast turn around.
 

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USAF Ret in Wis

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This was my very first thought. I would expect PXG to fix or replace them. Bummer to be without your clubs though....hope it's a fast turn around.
I was lucky to be chosen for the Morgan Cup so have a full set of Cobras that I love, so this is my back up set 👍
 

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I kinda doubt(could be wrong) that they used 355 in 370 hosel.
Some hosels are just under cut like that. My Callaways are.
They're shafted with 370's and are collard.

It's been my experience that if a ferrule fits too snug on the shaft at installation, you will have sliding issues because the epoxy gets wiped off.
I have been sanding mine to a loose slide fit. That way the epoxy maintains a film and haven't had that problem.

I haven't tried it, but I think I would try real thin superglue. It'll wick into it.
You’d be wrong. They do and they call it a “universal” hosel. Or at least Golf Works calls it that.

 
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Ok, cool. I thought that might be a possibility.
Learn something new every day.
Thanks
I think it’s a terrible idea and is the direct cause to the OP’s problem. I’ve had 2 sets of PXG’s and both had the same issue. And literally every other person I’ve known that has had a set, regardless of model, had the same issue. I also see it come up on the golf forums fairly frequently as well.
 

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I think it’s a terrible idea and is the direct cause to the OP’s problem. I’ve had 2 sets of PXG’s and both had the same issue. And literally every other person I’ve known that has had a set, regardless of model, had the same issue. I also see it come up on the golf forums fairly frequently as well.
When can i expect it with mine? Gen 2 bought in March/April use for 6-8 rings a month and 3-4 range sessions?

Serious question, i want to be prepared as mine will also become backups, in there not too distant future, fingers crossed!
 

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When can i expect it with mine? Gen 2 bought in March/April use for 6-8 rings a month and 3-4 range sessions?

Serious question, i want to be prepared as mine will also become backups, in there not too distant future, fingers crossed!
It took around 6 months for both of my sets. But they both had .355 shafts installed in them. It may not be an issue for you if you have parallel/.370 shafts installed in yours.
 

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Thanks I’ve got the MMT shafts with the matte finish, i think they are parallel.
 

deepred

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The best tool for this is one of those rubber shaft clamps that come with grip kits. As some said a bit of heat and clear the old epoxy out if possible, then apply a little and slide it back.
.355 tip shafts are .370 at the top of the hosel, GW universal hosel has a small hole at the bottom to center the .355 shaft. I use shims but I know some use shafting beads. Most graphite shafts are .370 so the issue was probably too much epoxy in the assembly. My first set of new clubs were Titleist irons bought in 1976 and the ferrules walked on two of them.
 

kiwichris

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I think it’s a terrible idea and is the direct cause to the OP’s problem. I’ve had 2 sets of PXG’s and both had the same issue. And literally every other person I’ve known that has had a set, regardless of model, had the same issue. I also see it come up on the golf forums fairly frequently as well.
Recently pulled 2 sets of pxg, quality of epoxy leaves much to be desired, least amount of heat to get them of so having ferrules slip is also a worry.
 

Release

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If they are PXG’s I couldn’t get any of the above recommendations to work. The problem is they install .355 shafts in .370 hosels and use collared ferrules to center the shafts. The collared ferrules don’t want to slide back down into the hosel. It’s not the same as just heating a standard ferrule that is only sliding up and down the shaft, as opposed to into the hosel.
The difference between a tapered tip and a paralleled is but 1/8", the rest of it are the same . PXG is similar to some of the older Taylor Made irons, the hosel has a little bit more play, thus require a collared ferrule to help centering the shaft while the epoxy is curing.
The issue is not in the very tip of the shat but in the hosel.
However, the typical longer collar on the PXG ferrule will present some problem if trying to push it back without cleaning out the old epoxy first to make room for the collared ferrule/ new epoxy.
Try to clean out the old epoxy around the top of the ferrule ( estimate the depth of the plastic ferrule ) slide the ferrule back with a dap of epoxy.
Warming up the ferrule and use something to grab on to the ferrule to push it back down. Warming the ferrule is to make the plastic more pliable. I use thick rubber band ( the kind we throw away from the broccoli tiedown ) or a piece of the inner tube from a bicycle tire. Something that could provide friction to firmly grab on to the ferrule and give it a little twist.

I have to agree with the question mark applied to the type of the epoxy used. Some of the OEM use the epoxy which require very low heat to break down. Makes me wonder if the bonding will hold up inside the trunk of a car during Summer. Irons take the most punishment going down to the turf , and there be lots of stress and movement between the hosel and the shaft; ferrule is at the very point where it all happened.

The most important issue is to make sure the shaft is not coming loose. So it won't be just a cosmetic issue.
It if it were I, I would fell better if I remove the shaft and re-assemble it.
 
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