99srxman
@srxman STAY LEFT!!!!
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Woodworking / Furniture Building
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Last edited:
The good woodworkers on here, radial saw better than a miter? Not super happy with my miter and there's an older decent looking Craftsman radial for sale locally.
T2GRN18
Active member
Depends on what your looking to do with it. My dad had an older Radial and he could do all kinds of things with it. It was like a miter/table saw combo kind of thing
I wanna build sh!t haha. I'd call myself mediocre at this stuff. I built my bar and my daughter's bed, and some other smaller stuff. Have to build my son's bed this year; might do bunk beds. Have done everything so far with my miter box, circular saw, jig saw, and my kreg jig.
99srxman
@srxman STAY LEFT!!!!
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Agreed they both have there benefits and drawbacks I prefer a good miter box what seems to be the problem ??
Just doesn't cut great. Have a Craftsman 10" compound sliding. Put a better blade on it and it got a little better, but a square edge is still dang near impossible. Seems to cut with a little bit of a wave from top to bottom. Squaring the angle is also a tad tricky because it twists a little when locking it in place. Cumbersome when I have to go from a mitered cut back to square.
T2GRN18
Active member
Sounds like you would benefit from a sliding compound saw. Depending on how much you're wanting to spend there are some solid offerings out there. I have a couple that do the trick for different tasks at hand. Then I use a straight miter saw for ease of transporting and small jobs like shoe molding a running casing and stuff.
99srxman
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Yes all saw's have a small deg. of wobble to them the trick is to find one that minimize it we have had good luck with dewalt and the ridged brand's. As far as working with the radial arm yes they can do more thing's but it takes time to set up and reset for the next setup and just like everything else out there you kind of get what you pay for imo. table saw's you get the most bang for your buck but a good one doesn't come cheap delta uni- saw with a beismeyer fence $2500.00 it come's down to how much do you want to spend and how much are you going to do with it??
Thanks guys. I don't do a ton, just here and there, so don't want to spend a ton. Guess just when the time is right I'll upgrade to a better miter.
Best answer I can give is it depends.
If you need portability the RAS is out. Also, some of the later models of Craftsman RAS tend to require frequent adjustment. If the RAS is an older model with cast iron arm, like the model 100, I would pick it up, given the price is right.
It looks like he turned the sink base also. How did he enable access to the plumbing underneath?
Picking up from last time...
Picking up from last time...
When I left last time the face frame and back panel frame were built and the back panels were in progress.
Here the face frame has been glued in place, the back panel frame has had the panels installed and has been fitted and glued in place.
The door is assembled and leaning in place. I got going on the door and zoned out. As a result I have no in progress pics of door construction and assembly. All door parts have rabbets in the back to accept the glass panels (which I have not yet gotten). The outer rails and stiles have a single rabbet on the inside edge, the center rail and stiles have rabbets on both edges. The outer rails get tenons on both ends and the outer stiles have mortises to accept the tenons. The inner rail and stiles have tenons on the ends and are joined to one another with a half lap.
The door width is 1/2" narrower than the door opening.
<Insert profanity laced tirade here>
After I calmed down, I thought for a minute about what went wrong. After a while I recalled that the rabbets were 1/4" wide, and that x2 gave me the 1/2" difference between the door and its opening. I had measured for my rails starting from the rabbet on the back rather than the tenon on the front. Ugh. I didn't have much time before this piece had to make its debut at the fundraiser dinner, so rather than try to make a new, wider door I elected to make the opening smaller:
I cut two pieces 1/4" thick by 7/8" wide which I used to pad each side of the face frame inward.
To hide what would be a very obvious patch, I cut 1/8" thick veneer to glue overtop the existing face frame and hide the padding.
The result is a much better-fitting door, here sitting in its opening and being fitted for an external cabinet catch, which I opted for in lieu of the more traditional mortised lock and key. Two narrow plinth strips have been attached atop the face frame on either side along with two capital blocks (not visible in this pic). The top! I neglected to mention that. The top is attached using figure 8 desktop fasteners like this:
My original plan was to use dowels but in the interest of time went with these. The original plan called for using these anyway. You can actually see the shadows they cast in the first pic of the post.
Here is the (almost) finished piece standing in place at the fundraiser dinner awaiting chance takers to come along and buy a few tickets (I did sell about $100 worth that evening). There is no topcoat on it yet, just a combo of dye and gel stain. I'm not entirely happy with the color so I may tweak that a bit, and get the glass and glass stops cut and fit. I also need to find a matching screw from the cabinet catch since I dropped one on the floor and can't find it :embarrassed:
Picking up from last time...
When I left last time the face frame and back panel frame were built and the back panels were in progress.
Here the face frame has been glued in place, the back panel frame has had the panels installed and has been fitted and glued in place.
The door is assembled and leaning in place. I got going on the door and zoned out. As a result I have no in progress pics of door construction and assembly. All door parts have rabbets in the back to accept the glass panels (which I have not yet gotten). The outer rails and stiles have a single rabbet on the inside edge, the center rail and stiles have rabbets on both edges. The outer rails get tenons on both ends and the outer stiles have mortises to accept the tenons. The inner rail and stiles have tenons on the ends and are joined to one another with a half lap.
The door width is 1/2" narrower than the door opening.
<Insert profanity laced tirade here>
After I calmed down, I thought for a minute about what went wrong. After a while I recalled that the rabbets were 1/4" wide, and that x2 gave me the 1/2" difference between the door and its opening. I had measured for my rails starting from the rabbet on the back rather than the tenon on the front. Ugh. I didn't have much time before this piece had to make its debut at the fundraiser dinner, so rather than try to make a new, wider door I elected to make the opening smaller:
I cut two pieces 1/4" thick by 7/8" wide which I used to pad each side of the face frame inward.
To hide what would be a very obvious patch, I cut 1/8" thick veneer to glue overtop the existing face frame and hide the padding.
The result is a much better-fitting door, here sitting in its opening and being fitted for an external cabinet catch, which I opted for in lieu of the more traditional mortised lock and key. Two narrow plinth strips have been attached atop the face frame on either side along with two capital blocks (not visible in this pic). The top! I neglected to mention that. The top is attached using figure 8 desktop fasteners like this:
My original plan was to use dowels but in the interest of time went with these. The original plan called for using these anyway. You can actually see the shadows they cast in the first pic of the post.
Here is the (almost) finished piece standing in place at the fundraiser dinner awaiting chance takers to come along and buy a few tickets (I did sell about $100 worth that evening). There is no topcoat on it yet, just a combo of dye and gel stain. I'm not entirely happy with the color so I may tweak that a bit, and get the glass and glass stops cut and fit. I also need to find a matching screw from the cabinet catch since I dropped one on the floor and can't find it :embarrassed:
Txseaaggie
New member
Pretty impressive stuff in here.
I made this stand for my work desk in a few hours.
Plan to take on a bigger project next. Thinking a shelf or bookcase.
I made this stand for my work desk in a few hours.
Plan to take on a bigger project next. Thinking a shelf or bookcase.
Wake
Active member
I think my parents are going to have a Reclaimed wood countertop done on the island in their new kitchen. It is a HUGE island and will be a big time statement piece in the house. It would be really cool for my dad and I to do it ourselves, but just no time.
Pretty impressive stuff in here.
I made this stand for my work desk in a few hours.
Plan to take on a bigger project next. Thinking a shelf or bookcase.
VERY cool. I may just borrow that design, with your permission of course.
Txseaaggie
New member
golfinFF
Active member
Do you have any pics or ideas on how you want to cover them? What tools do you have?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1. Do what your wife tells you.
2. Expect her to change her mind mid project... Just smile and wave.
3. Every new project requires a new tool. Build it into the budget.
SixYardDrive
New member
Measure thrice and cut once.
I put out a call with my logger pals for logs and one stopped by this week to ask if I wanted a 5' x 36" piece of white oak. I have a couple of ideas for it. Could get interesting and I will post back soon.
How thick is said piece?
SixYardDrive
New member
It's a log end 5' long and 3' in diameter.
If I were getting a log that size I would probably have it quarter sawn, but having it slabbed is an option too. Is there someone nearby with a mill? Do you have access to a kiln or were you going to air dry?
ETA, if the log has already been cut you want to get the ends painted ASAP to keep checking to a minimum.
ETA, if the log has already been cut you want to get the ends painted ASAP to keep checking to a minimum.