Home Repair Shop
bbuonic81
Active member
Thanks. Makes sense.
Has anyone used a dremel for this? Would it work for both steel and graphite? I figure if I can get one tool for both jobs, I'll do it.
AZArmyGolfer
Still Walking
For re-gripping, I use an air compressor and avoid tape and solvent. I can remove and replace a grip in less than a minute. There are numerous videos on YouTube on the subject, here is a link to one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-kRoNQ91do
niteowl03
Active member
I use a dremel for all my shaft cutting. Easier that the pipe cutter to me and makes a cleaner cut.
bbuonic81
Active member
Any particular cutting wheel you've had success with?
niteowl03
Active member
The one that came in my kit...its nothing special. Im out of pocket but I can grab a pic when I get home if you want.
I just wrap the graphite shaft in some masking tape and use a sharp PVC hacksaw. You have to stop at the very end and start from the other side to prevent the layers peeling.
bbuonic81
Active member
Thanks - I think I should be all set.
I think a dremel it is - seems easy as well as something I should probably add to my tool kit in general.
niteowl03
Active member
Its easily the most useful tool I have. Putter refinishing, cutting shafts, cleaning hosels etc.
bbuonic81
Active member
So, I know it's been said a bunch in this thread and others on THP, but I just want to echo the comments one more time: if you are thinking about dabbling in your own club work, do it! It's really not hard with the right equipment and just a little bit of time.
I decided I was finally going to jump into it and put togther some tools for a little workshop of my own - a dremel, a heat gun, a small foldable work table, a good 48" ruler, some welding gloves (all for under 80 bucks at Harbor Freight) and then added in some club making materials (grip tape, solvent, epoxy, ferrules, shims) from GolfWorks. I also got a shaft puller (necessary for graphite but not for steel) mostly because I figured the investment was better than paying someone to pull a set of iron shafts.
In the last couple of days, I've regripped my wife's clubs (first regrip job - took maybe an hour to do the set in front of the television); pulled the set of graphite shafts from my irons, cleaned the heads and prepped most of the new shafts for install. Tonight I hope to finish the prepping and actually put a couple together to see how my first reshaft job holds up.
If nothing else, it's a really fun experiment and a nice golf 'fix" for when the temps are in the teens here in the northeast and you can't get out on the course.
I decided I was finally going to jump into it and put togther some tools for a little workshop of my own - a dremel, a heat gun, a small foldable work table, a good 48" ruler, some welding gloves (all for under 80 bucks at Harbor Freight) and then added in some club making materials (grip tape, solvent, epoxy, ferrules, shims) from GolfWorks. I also got a shaft puller (necessary for graphite but not for steel) mostly because I figured the investment was better than paying someone to pull a set of iron shafts.
In the last couple of days, I've regripped my wife's clubs (first regrip job - took maybe an hour to do the set in front of the television); pulled the set of graphite shafts from my irons, cleaned the heads and prepped most of the new shafts for install. Tonight I hope to finish the prepping and actually put a couple together to see how my first reshaft job holds up.
If nothing else, it's a really fun experiment and a nice golf 'fix" for when the temps are in the teens here in the northeast and you can't get out on the course.
bbuonic81
Active member
So last night I installed a couple of shats into my recently un-shafted Altitude heads. Everything seems to have gone pretty well so far (though I am clearly reserving full judgment until I am able to take a couple of swings without the head flying off on down the range/fairway).
I did, apparently, get a little over zealous when prepping the shaft tip, however, and notices that a small amount of the rough shaft is showing passed the ferrules. Now, this clearly won't affect the playability at all, but has anyone else done this? Is there a way to buff that part back out or have you just left it as is?
I did, apparently, get a little over zealous when prepping the shaft tip, however, and notices that a small amount of the rough shaft is showing passed the ferrules. Now, this clearly won't affect the playability at all, but has anyone else done this? Is there a way to buff that part back out or have you just left it as is?
bbuonic81
Active member
I did have that thought. I think am most likely just going to leave it as as. The only person who would ever know will be me...I'll just have to try my best to get over it. Haha.
When you guys are swapping out shafts in your irons, do you usually do one club first and try it out, or do you do them all at once?
- Moderator
- #594
Usually all at once. Don't know why but it's never occurred to me to just do one.
VA. Vince
SC bound...
^^^This, I also use some painters tape and label each shaft which head it receives. Like 4,5,6 and so on.
niteowl03
Active member
Is it possible to remove grips using air, when the grips are glued in (tape+solvent) Yes
Can I clean the grips after if there's still some tape inside the grip? Yes, i roll the grips backwards and clean out with a bottle brush
Can I clean the grips after if there's still some tape inside the grip? Yes, i roll the grips backwards and clean out with a bottle brush
- Moderator
- #598
Yes, but word of caution when doing it. The grips can fail and explode. It's very loud and it can hurt when you get tagged by shards of rubber.
That being said, it's taken me 80-100psi to get it to break the tape. Use only short bursts and twist the grip until you feel the tape starting to lose its grip. If you see a bubble form, immediately stop and remove the nosel from the butt of the grip and let it shrink. It seems to happen to me half the time, then usually removing it is only a few seconds away. It's honestly not always worth the hassle, but if you just put on new grips and decided to go the air route I guess it would be worth the 7.50 or so a grip.
niteowl03
Active member
I put a paint roller over the grip before I begin to blow it off (with or without tape) this stops the grip from blowing up, keeps the bubbles from getting as big and helps force the air out of the end of the grip.