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How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

Nippon Shafts
#Cookie said:
Yep, what he said!

And to the other question via PM - yes, drill that epoxy out and you should have a hollow hosel going down into head.

Looking forward to the finished product!
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Thank you. I drilled them out, only a couple of them had those blue plastic bits. Its looks like they were to plug the end of the shaft in the head.
 
lopsta5 said:
Is that very noticeable when swinging? Is it an ok thing to do? I just play with stiff shafts but really don't know much about them, im guessing I couldn't really be able to tell.

Also how do you measure the length? I tried the cb irons out with KBS shafts and they were the right length which according to the TM website it says the 4i is 38.25" but the blank TT shafts 4i length is 38.5, would I need to cut to that length?

Thanks for the help.
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Not really. I do it if I need an AW shaft and don't have one. Or if I need more length than the pulls can give me.

Take the old shafts out and match the length that way. Butt cut them. Measure twice and cut once!

There is a good YouTube video from hireko if you're wanting to measure the actual clubs, but you're better off doing it the other way if you can. Basically, sole the club and run a measuring tape up the back of the shaft from the where the heel touches the ground.
 
Hawk said:
Not really. I do it if I need an AW shaft and don't have one. Or if I need more length than the pulls can give me.

Take the old shafts out and match the length that way. Butt cut them. Measure twice and cut once!

There is a good YouTube video from hireko if you're wanting to measure the actual clubs, but you're better off doing it the other way if you can. Basically, sole the club and run a measuring tape up the back of the shaft from the where the heel touches the ground.
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That's good thank you.

Im using brand new shafts and heads so don't have any pulls to measure against. Or would I just sit the new shaft into the head and get my other irons and just measure the length next to them and cut to the same length? Or do I maybe cut them to the lengths on the TM link below?

Are these lengths on the TM site the full club length or just the shaft length? http://taylormadegolf.com/TaylorMade/Tour-Preferred-CB-Irons/DW-WZ001.html

Also when I put the tip of the shaft into the head it has a tiny bit of play is this normal? And would the epoxy stop it doing that or is there something I need to put in there as well?

Thank you very much for all your expertise and help. Hope im not annoying, just trying to learn. :D
 
lopsta5 said:
Is that very noticeable when swinging? Is it an ok thing to do? I just play with stiff shafts but really don't know much about them, im guessing I couldn't really be able to tell.

Also how do you measure the length? I tried the cb irons out with KBS shafts and they were the right length which according to the TM website it says the 4i is 38.25" but the blank TT shafts 4i length is 39.5, would I need to cut to that length?

Thanks for the help.
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I had a set of my irons soft stepped once from 4-pw to 5-gw to suit some pulls I got and I could not tell the difference.
 
It's the length of the whole club lopsta.

Check this video out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adCW1axRn3E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

You can use a measuring tape in a pinch, but make sure the club is soled. If the CB's have a standard 1/2 inch progression you can measure one this way and mark it. Then just measure the others based on that.

A tiny bit of play is fine.

No worries on the questions. That's what we are here for!
 
Hawk said:
It's the length of the whole club lopsta.

Check this video out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adCW1axRn3E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

You can use a measuring tape in a pinch, but make sure the club is soled. If the CB's have a standard 1/2 inch progression you can measure one this way and mark it. Then just measure the others based on that.

A tiny bit of play is fine.

No worries on the questions. That's what we are here for!
Click to expand...

Thank you for helping me Hawk. I have looked and the TM, Ping and TT website all have the 4i at 38.25" which I assume is the standard length. So the shaft I have is 39.5" so I would put it into the head and cut it at the 38.25 length to be the right length would this be correct? Like how he measured it in the video. Off the butt end only according to the TT website trimming guide. Then after cutting I would put the grips on, correct?
Does the epoxy on the shaft and inside the head fill up the small gap and stop the shaft moving? Do you put some epoxy on the shaft and inside the head?

Thank you.
 
Yep you got the measurement part right. Then, you can just add or subtract length from there and mark the other shafts for trimming. I Usually write it all out on paper first.

I take a tooth pick and get a gob of epoxy, then coat the inside of the hosel all the way to the bottom. Then I coat the tip of the shaft afterwards woth a thin layer. That should be plenty. I think that will keep them nice and tight.

Don't forget to prep the tips if these are new shafts.
 
Anyone have tips for keeping the shaft from moving in the vice? I heated up the head for 10 minutes, but can't twist the head off because the shaft keeps twisting in the vice as well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Holy moly! Ten minutes? Pardon the skim, but are you using a heat gun or a torch? Never really had one that stubborn, but sometimes mine want to move in the vise on tough removals too. When that happens, I just grab a towel for the hot head and hold the grip and twist while holding the shaft still at the grip end. Don't force it though. Just use more heat.

Pro tip: Sometimes the ferrules are what's holding things up. Done be afraid to heat the entire hosel and rotate the shaft so that you are heating the entire 360 degrees of the hosel. It's pretty hard to save a ferrule without a puller, so don't be afraid to get some heat up towards them. They are gonna deform anyway.

JM
 
PGG: if a heat gun, I struggled with using it also.

Torch made the work a hell of a lot easier and quicker.
 
Thanks guys. It is a heat gun and I was trying to save the ferrule, so I might need to change things up.


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#Cookie said:
PGG: if a heat gun, I struggled with using it also.

Torch made the work a hell of a lot easier and quicker.
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What he said. I neglected to add that a torch works better than a heat gun in my experience.

JM
 
Hawk said:
Yep you got the measurement part right. Then, you can just add or subtract length from there and mark the other shafts for trimming. I Usually write it all out on paper first.

I take a tooth pick and get a gob of epoxy, then coat the inside of the hosel all the way to the bottom. Then I coat the tip of the shaft afterwards woth a thin layer. That should be plenty. I think that will keep them nice and tight.

Don't forget to prep the tips if these are new shafts.
Click to expand...

Thank you, you have been very helpful. Now just to find a pipe cutter and a long steel ruler.
 
Just a quick question guys about the soft stepping. I play stiff shafts and you said they change flex by about 1/3 flex, so I have a set of X-Stiff and stiff shafts so would I be better using the X-Stiff or would using the normal stiff be ok? I guessing the x-stiff wouldn't come down enough to be good.
 
Lopsta that depends really on your swing and how you load the shafts.

Good new is that you have the ability to do figure it out for sure. I'd toss the 5i into the 6i head leave it long that way if you dint like the feel and launch you can pull it and haven't made the shaft unusable.
 
Anyone have an opinion on the split ferrules you can get?

I have one iron with a damaged ferrule, and would like to replace it. Noticed that the split ferrule would allow the replacement without removing the shaft from the head.

Anyone use them? Do they hold together decently?
 
Brad is assume a little epoxy on each piece would keep it in place easily. Or even a little super glue at the seem should be enough.
 
How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

Does the x hot 3 deep Pro use a special ferrule or just a standard wood .335 ferrule?
 
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Got a set of True Temper XP105 shafts laying around, thinking of throwing them in my Amp Cells to see how they work compared to the Dynalites. And just to get in my first re-shafting job, been wanting to do it for a while. Need to pick up all the tools, then might be back in here with some questions. Getting a little excited about possibly doing it.
 
So what do I need to buy online that I can't buy in store? Planning on vise and heat gun at Menards prolly. Rubber shaft clamps for vise, epoxy, and ferrules online?
 
You have the list pretty much nailed down,

Add some sand paper to hit the ends of the new shafts or a copper pipe cleaning tool

Also a pipe cutter to cut the new shafts to length
 
Will a hack saw work or should I grab a pipe cutter to keep it clean? Have sand paper, like 120 or 150, don't know if a specific grit works best...
 
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And I think I saw before I can just do painter's tape with a little water and air for the grips?
 
Yep hacksaw should work. Measure twice cut once.

Grips should be fine that way.
 
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