How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

[Mmaynard11]

Good to know! Thanks for the input! Any others have success or input?

Come spring time it's poor mans golf shop being built in my garage/tool bench area because...why not!


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I purchased the Heat Gun referenced in the OP. Wagner for $22 at Lowes. The first pool took a little bit longer then the rest due to the gun heating up.

 

[golfinFF]

How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

Hey what's everyone using for heat for pulling shafts? Besides a blow torch what heat guns are people using?


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I use a heat gun and had no problems with it pulling iron shafts. They come in a varying range of temps buy one preferably that the temp can be adjusted on it and is as hot as you can find.


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[wham49]

just the wall paper heat guns at lowes or Menards work great, blowtorch is a little much, especially if you want to save the shafts

 

[JonD]

Yeah, heat gun here as well. Cheapest one I could find at Home Depot. It's features include a high and low setting! Works well though. First iron can take a bit as the gun needs to heat up but after that it breaks up the epoxy pretty quick.

 

[Germerican]

Nothing like a quick reshaft to start the day. Got some used DG Spinners a while back off the marketplace and finally got around to placing them in.

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[Johnny mojo]

Nice job!

JM

 

[Mmaynard11]

Nice. I'm still debating whether I have mine done or give it a go on my own.

 

[Germerican]

Nice job!

JM

Nice. I'm still debating whether I have mine done or give it a go on my own.

Thanks. I was a little worried since the Callaway shafts are S300 with .370 tips and the Spinners are .355. When I inserted the shafts I did not notice any rocking so I should be good to go. Can't wait to give them a go this weekend.

 

[Plin]

Nice. I'm still debating whether I have mine done or give it a go on my own.

I would just give it a go, bore out the hosel so the shaft sits properly. Unless you plan on switching back to .355 at some point, even then, you could use a shim or a ferrule that acts like a shim. Either way, nothing like putting your own club together. Give your clubs some love, it just might give it back on the course, :clap:

 

[Mmaynard11]

I would just give it a go, bore out the hosel so the shaft sits properly. Unless you plan on switching back to .355 at some point, even then, you could use a shim or a ferrule that acts like a shim. Either way, nothing like putting your own club together. Give your clubs some love, it just might give it back on the course, :clap:

Part that confuses me the most is the swing weight. I've read a document Mojo provided me multiple times and leave with a headache.

 

[tequila4kapp]

I would shim those. You can pick up the shims pretty inexpensively. The one time I needed that done I was not confident enough to do it myself so I paid. After watching I realized I should've done it myself. All you do is use the epoxy to glue the shim on to the tip. Let it dry. Then install the shaft as you normally would. Simple.


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[#Cookie]

I would shim those. You can pick up the shims pretty inexpensively. The one time I needed that done I was not confident enough to do it myself so I paid. After watching I realized I should've done it myself. All you do is use the epoxy to glue the shim on to the tip. Let it dry. Then install the shaft as you normally would. Simple.


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Every time I've done it I just apply epoxy to the tip and then slide shim over and then insert into head that already has epoxy on it. Then flip it over with butt towards ground and jam it into the ground a few times to ensure that it gets in there as much as possible. Probably not the right way...but hasn't failed me yet. :angel:

 

[Plin]

Part that confuses me the most is the swing weight. I've read a document Mojo provided me multiple times and leave with a headache.

You can calculate your existing swing weight as it sits using http://www.leaderboard.com/swingwt.htm

Once you get the number of the club you currently play. You can decide if you want the same swing weight or lighter swing weight because it's a graphite build.

The usual SW is around D2 while a Graphite build is D0 which is lighter feeling. Either way, your overall club weight will be lighter which would contribute to the lightness of the club even at the same swing weight.

My suggestion is find the club you like the most whether it's 7 or 9 or whichever iron. Run it through the estimator. Get an idea of your ideal swing weight.

From that point on, you can build your club and adjust accordingly. Also the overall length of the shaft, you're looking to keep the same length and lie of the club, you would need to counter weight at the butt end to get the swing weight back to normal.

As in, the lighter your shaft is, the heavier the swing weight will be at the same length. So you would have to counterweight at the butt. Or OEMs usually build about half an inch longer on graphites to keep the swing weight slightly closer without counter weight, (which I don't personally recommend, as length and lie will change and affect how you strike the ball)

The Rule is for every 1/2" of butt trimmed (or extended), you move 3 swing weights. (D3-D0)

As an example:

My 7 iron with Tour V 110 shaft was at 37" and D3 swing weight weighing 430g total
I swapped in a 85 gram (uncut) Axe Tour X shaft and kept the same club length at 37", I countered weighted it with two wraps (5g) and a 5 gram weight with a 50 gram grip. Adding about 60 gram total at the butt end to counter weight the head. Now the club is at 405g total and D0 swing weight.

 

[Johnny mojo]

Part that confuses me the most is the swing weight. I've read a document Mojo provided me multiple times and leave with a headache.

I told you to read it at your own risk! :act-up:

The whole swing weight thing is black magic to me with the introduction of Graphite which is what I think you were working on right?

JM

 

[tequila4kapp]

The club builder at GolfSmith told me to let it dry on the tip first because it becomes part of the shaft and the shim will never get stuck inside the club head if you decide to re-shaft again. I've never done it myself so I don't really know. Just sharing information.


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[#Cookie]

The club builder at GolfSmith told me to let it dry on the tip first because it becomes part of the shaft and the shim will never get stuck inside the club head if you decide to re-shaft again. I've never done it myself so I don't really know. Just sharing information.


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Makes sense.....I feel for the poor soul that tries to take apart what I've assembled.

 

[MPlefty]

The club builder at GolfSmith told me to let it dry on the tip first because it becomes part of the shaft and the shim will never get stuck inside the club head if you decide to re-shaft again. I've never done it myself so I don't really know. Just sharing information.


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Makes sense.....I feel for the poor soul that tries to take apart what I've assembled.

#Cookie, I have done it like you, epoxy, shim, epoxy and straight into the head. it works just fine and the shim does stay in the hosel when you take the shaft out, but it is pretty easy to take them out with long nose pliers

 

[JohnSinVA]

#Cookie, I have done it like you, epoxy, shim, epoxy and straight into the head. it works just fine and the shim does stay in the hosel when you take the shaft out, but it is pretty easy to take them out with long nose pliers

True. The heat is going to break the bond between the shim and the hosel as well, just have some longnose pliers on hand to pull the shim out and clean things up as normal.

 

[Grins]

Question for anyone with graphite reshafting experience:

Jman was super special awesome & gave me a set of Cleveland 588 Altitudes heads (.370 inch) and I'm going to put in senior flex shafts for my youngest son (and after he outgrows them, maybe my wife? Or hell, probably me by that time lol!)

I was looking at shafts & was thinking maybe Aldila Rogue Pros. My question is - how hard is it to install graphite shafts? I'd rather do them myself if it's not too hard. I started going through this thread, but skipped around, so forgive me if this has been covered in depth elsewhere. I can put grips on (& have before with an air compressor & Pure grips tools) & I'd eventually like to be able to do reshafting myself, so this might be the shove I need to get into the whole process.

I guess a second question would be: any recommendations on a cheaper alternative to the Rogue Pros? & shafts would run $214. Cheapest Recoils I could find were $275, but UST has MP6 shafts for $175 (but I don't recall any THP talk regarding this shaft). I don't mind spending a little more to get a quality shaft, & the Rogues are getting lots of THP love in the Wilson Staff C200 irons thread. But if I can find a less expensive option, I won't complain either.

 

[Mmaynard11]

Question for anyone with graphite reshafting experience:

Jman was super special awesome & gave me a set of Cleveland 588 Altitudes heads (.370 inch) and I'm going to put in senior flex shafts for my youngest son (and after he outgrows them, maybe my wife? Or hell, probably me by that time lol!)

I was looking at shafts & was thinking maybe Aldila Rogue Pros. My question is - how hard is it to install graphite shafts? I'd rather do them myself if it's not too hard. I started going through this thread, but skipped around, so forgive me if this has been covered in depth elsewhere. I can put grips on (& have before with an air compressor & Pure grips tools) & I'd eventually like to be able to do reshafting myself, so this might be the shove I need to get into the whole process.

I guess a second question would be: any recommendations on a cheaper alternative to the Rogue Pros? & shafts would run $214. Cheapest Recoils I could find were $275, but UST has MP6 shafts for $175 (but I don't recall any THP talk regarding this shaft). I don't mind spending a little more to get a quality shaft, & the Rogues are getting lots of THP love in the Wilson Staff C200 irons thread. But if I can find a less expensive option, I won't complain either.

For the most part if your not pulling them and just reshafting then it's not difficult. Outside of swing weight. If you are pulling graphite it's another beast and you would need a puller.

Have you looked into Project X graphite?

 

[Grins]

For the most part if your not pulling them and just reshafting then it's not difficult. Outside of swing weight. If you are pulling graphite it's another beast and you would need a puller.

Have you looked into Project X graphite?

It seems like the Project X graphites are listed as low trajectory, low torque. Not sure that would be good for him.

 

[Trmpt98]

I'm glad I searched for reshafting. I am going to attempt this with my putter when the new shaft arrives this week. Wish me luck, lol

 

[OITW]

Good luck


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