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How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

Nippon Shafts
#Cookie said:
Shorter should work from a fit perspective.

Just be careful with pulls as they could be scuffed beyond the length that the short ones would cover.
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Great point! Long ones it is!
 
Did an install the other night, it was fun and quick. Used a blow torch and pulled all the heads (5-pw) in about 3 minutes.
 
jlukes said:
Ferrules, shafts, grips and heat gun en route.
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You really want a butane torch, not a heat gun. If it's an electric heat gun, it will take *forever* to get the heads hot enough.

I tried my heat gun for exactly one head and gave up.
 
Dave Alvarado said:
You really want a butane torch, not a heat gun. If it's an electric heat gun, it will take *forever* to get the heads hot enough.

I tried my heat gun for exactly one head and gave up.
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Except everywhere you read and every club builder I have ever been to uses a heat gun...
 
Dave Alvarado said:
You really want a butane torch, not a heat gun. If it's an electric heat gun, it will take *forever* to get the heads hot enough.

I tried my heat gun for exactly one head and gave up.
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But a heat gun will never discolor a head, which is what a torch will do if not used carefully. A matter of experience, preference, and willingness to risk discoloration. Nothing wrong with either when done correctly.
 
While I use a torch I think the key if using a heat gun is to get one that will get to the necessary heat to perform the job. We had one at the house that I tried to use but got nowhere so went to the torch.
 
I bought the gun listed in Hawk's guide, so I should be just fine.
 
The heat gun is slow for the first iron only. Once mine gets good and warmed up the subsequent irons go pretty fast. I'm also careful to rotate the heat on all sides of the iron, I think that helps speed things along with the gun for me.
 
Just received my recoil pulls. I'm assuming I should remove these tip thingies prior to installing?
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Yes, take a bit just smaller than the interior diameter of the shaft and it will suck it right out.
 
So shafts have been prepped - I drilled out the old epoxy, lightly sanded the tips, and removed the old grips and tape.

I was comparing to the shafts I currently installed and noticed that several of the recoils are longer than the stock shafts they will replacing. Obviously I should butt trim these, right? When is the best time to do that - after I remove old shafts and then simply compare their length to the new shafts and cut accordingly?
 
Yes; butt trim and would do just like you said when all shafts are headless and you can accurately cut/match.
 
I've got some DG Spinners coming in from the marketplace. Three I believe. Going to put one in my 58 and one in the 54. Holding off on the third if I decide to get the new MD3.
 
#Cookie said:
Yes; butt trim and would do just like you said when all shafts are headless and you can accurately cut/match.
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Thanks. Any tips for trimming? Tape the end and then use hacksaw or dremel? (I assume a pipe cutter wont work well on graphite)
 
If you have the Dremel, I would suggest that route. The tape is a good idea too, but I have done it with and without tape and achieved good results. If you have one, the good carbide cutting disc is best.

JM
 
jlukes said:
Thanks. Any tips for trimming? Tape the end and then use hacksaw or dremel? (I assume a pipe cutter wont work well on graphite)
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For graphite I just do a few layers of tape then a hacksaw. Likely done it 10-15 times and never had issues. Definitely no pipe cutter with graphite.
 
I've used hacksaw with no problems, dremel is just easier and faster
 
Those recoils are stock length. what shafts are you comparing them too and how much longer were they?
jlukes said:
So shafts have been prepped - I drilled out the old epoxy, lightly sanded the tips, and removed the old grips and tape.

I was comparing to the shafts I currently installed and noticed that several of the recoils are longer than the stock shafts they will replacing. Obviously I should butt trim these, right? When is the best time to do that - after I remove old shafts and then simply compare their length to the new shafts and cut accordingly?
Click to expand...
 
Tadashi70 said:
Those recoils are stock length. what shafts are you comparing them too and how much longer were they?
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I always thought graphite shafts usually ended up longer than steel shafts? I am probably wrong though.
 
I'm late to the party but I also tape and Dremmel to cut graphite shafts.
 
The right way to do it is stick them in the heads dry and measure the length of the club, then take the shaft back out and cut it.

There's no "standard" shaft length, only standard built club lengths. How far down the hosel the shaft can go matters. A shaft taken from one type of club might be too short or too long for another type of club.
 
so, I have removed my shafts from my heads, I did an experiment with half tour 90 and half tour V, and will go back to full tour V.

I have different weights and want to understand swingweights and what to use... should I use the same weights all the way trough or transition to heavier in the short or long irons?
 
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