We've launched the new forums! Read more here

Painting driver heads?

Nippon Shafts
golfinFF

golfinFF

Active member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
16,481
Reaction score
4
Location
Northwest of dayton
Handicap
21.9 oob
What do you guys use to paint driver heads? Do you use automotive paint, rattle can?

I pretty good with a spray gun and plan on using an airbrush for the detail work.

I ask cause I think I'm going to customize my driver and 5wd this winter.
 
I would use auto paintfor the base and get some Kreatex or auto air for the airbrush work. Use a good clear though, cheap clear will probably not be as durable. Diamont makes a 2k rattle can clear that has a 24 hour potlife once it's been popped. They use great uv screeners and good resins in their clear.
 
You should ask Bullfrog. I know he put an idiot mark on his at the Ohio outing. I think he was going to get someone in the paint department at his auto dealership to fix it for him. You may be able to see how it turned out.
 
It's always a good idea to use an etching primer. I've painted a couple of woods, hybrids, and drivers, and this stuff really helps make the paint stick. As far as paint goes, An enamel always works best. The absolute best is an epoxy paint. The epoxy paint mainly comes in gray, black and white. But there are some places that will mix any epoxy color you want.
 
thanks for the advice guys, hopefully this project goes well
 
you should take photo's and do a how to step by step.
 
Scrap Iron said:
you should take photo's and do a how to step by step.
Click to expand...

Scrap I will do this for sure. I actually spoke to my dad the other night about where to buy the paint. He actually suggested a friend of my brothers who is a dent paint repair guy as he can mix what ever color I want and add metal flake if I so choose. I know this will be at least a couple weeks before I do it but I'm getting excited to do this.
 
I painted Boats for a time similar to cars use the same paints should work great and look very kool.
 
For some technical reason pasting this club repair site didn't take. It's golfclubhospital.com, based in Minnesota. The pics indicate that they do great work with refinishing and painting metal woods, putters and also wooden clubs. The prices are very fair.
 
I actually painted my 3 wood today in a satin red finish. I used enamel paint as I've heard that lasts a while after I sanded out most of the original paint. It's not perfect as the lines are a little rough around the edges. It was hard to tape up the head perfectly since the lines were all curved slightly. I'll try and throw up some pictures tomorrow.
 
jank1434 said:
I actually painted my 3 wood today in a satin red finish. I used enamel paint as I've heard that lasts a while after I sanded out most of the original paint. It's not perfect as the lines are a little rough around the edges. It was hard to tape up the head perfectly since the lines were all curved slightly. I'll try and throw up some pictures tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Use pin striping tape to tape off the head and any other area tgat requires a curved edge.
 
Hey man, how is this going I have a great head that I sanded off the white paint and want to know how to make a great base layer.
 
I'd love to see some pics of some of the paint jobs you folks have done. This is pretty interesting if the results are good.
 
I haven't got to mine yet it will most likely be February when I can get to it as I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel and building some furniture.

Jank like 200s said use pin striping tape it works wonders and is easy to use and follow curves. I'd like to see your pics if you got some.

Scrap the best way to prep the head for paint is to sand the paint down to the metal clean it off with paint thinner on a rag and do not touch the prepped metal with your bare hands as the oil on them will mess up your paint job. Use a good primer and make sure your coats are even. for a nice smooth finish lightly sand the primer smooth then wipe it down with alcohol and do not touch the primer bare handed. Spray your paint making sure to get a good even coat let it tack up then hit it again. If you have any bumps or runs in your paint you can wet sand it with a high grits sand paper like 400 or 800 grit wrapped around a sanding block if you got one. When your happy shoot some clear on it.
 
Has anyone had a driver head airbrushed and what was the cost?
 
I have seen that done before but are they able to keep it from getting on the face?
 
http://www.golfpaint.com/

i have never tried it but was thinking about getting some to touch up the sky marks on my r11s
 
I found some automotive spay paint do you guys think that would work at all. I want to try something on an old driver.
 
Scrap Iron said:
I found some automotive spay paint do you guys think that would work at all. I want to try something on an old driver.
Click to expand...


Yes it will work but there are steps you should follow for success.
 
Scrap Iron said:
Please inform me.

I have also been thinking about one of these
http://www.bigwigzskins.com/bigwigz/
Click to expand...


The wraps are pretty cool, I like the fact that you can change them whenever you want.

Ok, what kind of car paint do you have? is is base coat? urethane? Laquer?

What kind of old driver do you have? is the paint in good shape?
 
Trout Bum said:
The wraps are pretty cool, I like the fact that you can change them whenever you want.

Ok, what kind of car paint do you have? is is base coat? urethane? Laquer?

What kind of old driver do you have? is the paint in good shape?
Click to expand...

It's a Krank driver head and I sanded the old paint off. I have not picked up any paint yet as I'm looking for tips and want to get the best stuff from the start.
 
Scrap Iron said:
It's a Krank driver head and I sanded the old paint off. I have not picked up any paint yet as I'm looking for tips and want to get the best stuff from the start.
Click to expand...


1) If it's bare metal make sure the metal has no rust and clean it with a glass cleaner, wear gloves so you don't re-contaminate the metal.
2) Get some 3/4 inch masking tape and tape off the face of the driver, you'll need to get some 1/4 inch 3M fineline tape to tape the final outline of the face and any other areas that need taping, the reason you use this is because of it's ability to bend around small small turns you put in it, such as the corners in the face of your driver.
3) get an aerosol can of etching primer and put a light coat on the metal, it should be semi transparent and not fully opaque. This allows the primer or primer sealer to adhere without peeling or chipping off.
4) If it were me I'd put a light coat of urethane primer on it but you can get an aerosol can of primer/sealer and apply a medium wet coat, that mean don't plow it with primer! (hold the can about 10 inches from the driver head and make sure it's covered so you can't see through it. If you use a good urethane primer let it fully dry and sand it the next day with 600 or 800 grit sand paper.
5) Repeat step 1, clean it with a mild dish soap and rinse it well and make sure it's dry! water drips or drops are not our friend when painting.
6) Apply your paint in med coats and let it flash for ten to fifteen minutes between each coat, if you try to put it all on in a couple coats the paint will not dry properly and will hold solvent, what that means is it will look and feel dry on top but underneath it will still be wet and when you clear it it will create a couple unfavorable issues. Once you get the paint on (probably 3 or 4 med coats for full opacity or coverage) let it sit for 30 minutes.
7) Assuming so far everything has turned out ok you're ready to clear it. You're in Calgary so go to a Uni-Select store and get your auto painting supplies. Get a can of a 2K aerosol clear, along with a tack rag. Open the tack rag all the way up and refold it differently, a tack rag removes all the dust and airborne contaminants that land on it from sitting, when you clear something and dust is underneath it magnifies the imperfection and looks like a small rock is underneath lol. Tack it off, shake up the clear really well, there may be a small plastic thing on the bottom of the can you need to pop to release the hardener. Apply the clear in even medium wet coats, you don't want dry spots but you don't want runs either allow it to flash for ten minutes between coats, after 2 or maybe 3 coats pull off the blue fineline tape from the outer perimiter of the face, this will prevent a heavy line around the perimiter (you don't have to do it, but I would) let it dry, most urethanes air dry on 12 to 24 hours, make sure you let it dry all the way.
8) it should be done now, if you have small dirt nibs you can LIGHTLY sand them with 2000 grit sandpaper and polish them by hand with a mild compound and polish.

It sounds like a ton of work but it's really not, and I did take a couple shortcuts. You're essentially painting a car, same process and materials.

Uniselect can in most cases even match the color of your driver and put it in aerosol form for you. This is for a glossy style finish, I don't know of any aerosols that come in a matt finish that are as durable as you'll need for a club head.

Tips for success!
1. make sure it is clean and free from fingerprints and grime (use your tack rag after every step it keeps the job clean)
2. make sure it's dry
3. take your time, it will be faster than rushing and fixing mistakes
4. TAKE YOUR TIME, IT WILL BE FASTER THAN RUSHING AND FIXING MISTAKES LOL.

Hope it helps
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top