TaylorMade SLDR Driver - Review Thread

Just Geeking out with our clubs. It worked for Johnny and Jack back in the Day. They used lead tape and counterbalance weights.

I admit it. I live and love golf. Tweaking my clubs. Pulling heads. Swapping shafts. Adding a little weight here. A different grip there.

It's part of my enjoyment of the game. And part of why I love THP'ERS. We share and learn from each other.

These threads on all parts of the game are awesome.

And like any other free advice. Take whatever good application apply to your game and leave the unused portions for others to enjoy or rebuke.

JMTC

Peace and love to all
 
As Johan has discovered, major changes to swingweight can be accomplished by changing the silver weight beneath the blue slider, but did you know the blue slider covers are also available in various weights?

The stock blue slider cover weighs 2-grams but you can replace it with a blue weight cover of either 4-grams or 6-grams should you want to "tweak" the swingweight slightly (heavier). Changing to a 4-gram blue piece will add 1-swingweight, while a 6-gram blue weight cover will add 2-swingweights to your SLDR Driver. You can find these weighted blue weight covers (cheap) on ebay from multiple sellers.

Obviously changing the blue slider cover is only recommended for "fine tuning" your SLDR's swingweight, but I thought you should be aware of it nonetheless. If you are trying to hit a very specific swingweight target this may help you do that.

Changing only the blue piece takes less than a minute and the only tool needed is the TaylorMade Torx Wrench that came with your SLDR Driver. Making the swap involves nothing more than loosening the slider screw. This is just one more way to "tweak" the SLDR Driver's swingweight slightly higher.

On the other hand, if you are looking to lower the swingweight slightly, you can simply use a heavier grip which Johan has also done. A heavier grip essentially works as a counterbalance to the clubhead's weight.

You can use the online swingweight calculator at www.golf-components.com/swing-weight-calculator.html to help you work all this out. (Scroll down on the landing page to find it).

Below is a pic of a weighted blue slider cover:

View attachment 21259
Bobcat. Question.

How do you keep the 2 gram tungsten weights from flying off. Have lost 3 so far. Have extra but can't finish a round intact. Crazy glue it. Pretreatment with acetone.


I definitely works. But limits club workability.

Top speed 5 mph higher with the 430 over the 460. Not sure why.

Once you go through the Mod your swing and ball flight characteristics change so you will have to adjust your loft. Lie angle. And sliding weight.

Tinker time.

 
Johan...

I have lost a few, but the ones on mine now seem very secure. It's best to trim the edges closely so the corners are slightly rounded. That way you can wedge them tightly into the corners for the most secure fit. The adhesive can be compromised if you try and re-position these. However, if you have lost (3) then you may actually have a defective batch, since these weights are designed specifically for this purpose. I have had a few instances when the adhesive tried to come off along with the peel-off backing, and if that happens use another one.

To answer your question more specifically, YES indeed, you can absolutely use a stronger bonding agent if you find that necessary to keep them on. Just keep in mind that something like epoxy or crazy glue can leave a non-removable residue on your Driver. Perhaps some good old fashioned contact cement would be a better option since the residue from that is usually quite easy to remove.

Interesting that your swing speed is higher with the 430. Several things come to mind that can affect swng speed:

- shaft length of 430 vs the 460

- swing weight of 430 vs the 460

- shaft type of the 430 vs the 460

- club head weight of the 430 vs the 460

(A heavier club head may "load" the shaft a bit more, increasing shaft flex, and hence adding some swing speed)

While a smaller club head is more aerodynamic through the air, in this case there is not enough difference in the head size to make much of a difference, so that isn't likely a factor here.
 
I finally tried an SLDR, the one I tried was setup with a Made for Taylormade RIP Phenom in X Flex.... Good lord I loved the feel of it! Now I am fighting the urge to buy it!
 
I am still shocked at all of the modifications being made to get the driver to work. Seems it would be much easier to buy a driver that works all on its own.
 
I finally tried an SLDR, the one I tried was setup with a Made for Taylormade RIP Phenom in X Flex.... Good lord I loved the feel of it! Now I am fighting the urge to buy it!


Man, keeping the wallet closed is tough when you get "the urge"
 
Man, keeping the wallet closed is tough when you get "the urge"
Especially with an Amazon Gift Card sitting on my desk just staring at me!
 
I am still shocked at all of the modifications being made to get the driver to work. Seems it would be much easier to buy a driver that works all on its own.

An option you may like is the new SLDR C-series Driver. a Classic (bonded) driver with no adjustments at all, so no need to tinker with it...it prefers to go dead straight but still offers the low spin distance of the other models. With a new (Gloss Black) color, the "C" model is a completely different 460cc head shape...lower profile than the originals with a clubface that is wider from heel-to-toe than other SLDR's. No directional bias in it whatsoever and no need to "loft up" either.

If you want classic bonded driver simplicity, the new SLDR C-series is a solid choice. It brings a level of forgiveness to the SLDR line of drivers, which did not exist there before.

TM has not forgotten how to build a classic bonded driver that just works! (For most people anyway). Despite the uninformed comments you may have seen, it's not a JetSpeed.

:act-up:
 
Last edited:
Thanks. Yeah I think I had a few defective weights. The adhesive double sided tape was still on the club head and only the weight had flown off.

I actually have been using the and fujikura motore speeder 7.2 ts shaft for all my testing to eliminate any variables outside of changes and differences between the 460. 430. And R15 430.

The 430 is listed as being 9 grams lighter than the 460 head according to taylormade website. So this may be why there is a difference. But also I just feel more comfortable behind the ball with the 430 over the 460 head.

More comfort. Less weight. Faster swing speed.

But I should add I have not done any of these trials on a trackman. So take it with a grain of salt.

Maybe I an using the wrong shaft or loft setting and haven't optimized the settings for each club head.

I'm sure once I made club head weight adjustment I should have made changes to the setup.

But I used the same shaft and loft settings on each head to be able to compare the effect of the tungsten weights without any other changes. Before and after.

I have share my results on the SC-100. Everyone can see for themselves if these changes improve your SLDR DRIVER experience.
 
Thanks... I have read your thoughts on the C Series but I didn't see any of the results you are claiming when I hit it. In fact, it performed basically exactly like the Jetspeed which is basically what it is. Not very forgiving, a SLDR without the weights or adjustments.
 
Love me some SLDR C talk.
 
:popcorn:
 
Dunno. For me the SLDR works fine as is, just got fit in a custom shaft. No need to tinker beyond that, but to each his own.
 
Dunno. For me the SLDR works fine as is, just got fit in a custom shaft. No need to tinker beyond that, but to each his own.

I hit that thing pretty well too! much better than the left handed one I tried
 
I'm off to Taylormade 's website to read all about the new release SLDR C...
 
Dunno. For me the SLDR works fine as is, just got fit in a custom shaft. No need to tinker beyond that, but to each his own.

Says the guy that went to the range with like 9 extra clubs at Neshanic Valley..heh
 
Back
Top