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Woodworking / Furniture Building

Got my parents railing done but while installing I found that the screws were just barely too long. The best way to explain it is that there is a small bulge and a crack. I'm trying to figure out what is the best way to fix this? Any suggestions? Reminder, it is Ipe. I grabbed a clamp and was hoping the pressure would push the bulge down....but it didn't.
 
maxw72 said:
Got my parents railing done but while installing I found that the screws were just barely too long. The best way to explain it is that there is a small bulge and a crack. I'm trying to figure out what is the best way to fix this? Any suggestions? Reminder, it is Ipe. I grabbed a clamp and was hoping the pressure would push the bulge down....but it didn't.
Click to expand...
Have a photo?
 
You might try taking a punch and tapping the bump down after backing the screw out. How did you decide to finish it?
 
maxw72 said:
Just put some danish oil on it.
Click to expand...
I typically don’t recommend spot sanding since it tends to become visible once finish is applied, but you could try adding some of the danish oil and wet sanding with fine paper to smooth out the bump after trying to flatten with the punch. A light touch and patience should be able to get it close and a little sanding to blend. It’s tough stuff to work so patience is definitely called for.
 
JohnSinVA said:
I typically don’t recommend spot sanding since it tends to become visible once finish is applied, but you could try adding some of the danish oil and wet sanding with fine paper to smooth out the bump after trying to flatten with the punch. A light touch and patience should be able to get it close and a little sanding to blend. It’s tough stuff to work so patience is definitely called for.
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Big shoutout to @JohnSinVA . Started with a punch to knock it down a bit then sanded with 400 grit sandpaper and danish oil and it is unnoticeable! Thank you!! 0BF79284-FC76-4BDA-A472-452D74197F0D.jpeg
 
Months ago at work I snagged a bunch of scrap that was originally a large cabinet.
Today was the day that I finally got around to starting to process a bunch of it.

The end goal? I want to "carve" some key bowls/platters out of the glueups. With a small router.... that I have no bits for (yet). My first attempt at this, and I figured I would try it out on the scrap before dropping the money on stock at the wood supplier.

So far, I managed to put a bunch of stained/finished wood lengths through my table saw. Get them to generally uniform thicknesses, and sawed off all the finish (instead of trying to sand it all off). The result? 9-10 lengths, between 4-5 feet long, with no finish on them, but in need of a lot of sanding to get rid of the burn marks from the blade.

Next step? Sanding, sanding, sanding.
 
Mad_Brad said:
Months ago at work I snagged a bunch of scrap that was originally a large cabinet.
Today was the day that I finally got around to starting to process a bunch of it.

The end goal? I want to "carve" some key bowls/platters out of the glueups. With a small router.... that I have no bits for (yet). My first attempt at this, and I figured I would try it out on the scrap before dropping the money on stock at the wood supplier.

So far, I managed to put a bunch of stained/finished wood lengths through my table saw. Get them to generally uniform thicknesses, and sawed off all the finish (instead of trying to sand it all off). The result? 9-10 lengths, between 4-5 feet long, with no finish on them, but in need of a lot of sanding to get rid of the burn marks from the blade.

Next step? Sanding, sanding, sanding.
Click to expand...
1628858584599.jpeg
Sanding saver.
 
JohnSinVA said:
View attachment 9022078
Sanding saver.
Click to expand...

I think I need to make it a goal this winter to put some time in getting comfortable working with hand planes. I've never used one but would like to. I think I'd also like to get some old models and restore them.
 
KEV said:
I think I need to make it a goal this winter to put some time in getting comfortable working with hand planes. I've never used one but would like to. I think I'd also like to get some old models and restore them.
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It’ll definitely change the way you work. My best advice is pick a method to sharpen, get comfortable with it, and stick to it. Pulling curlies with a sharp hand plane is definitely fun.
 
Figure this may be a better thread to ask this than the home reno thread.. the Wife is planning some projects for me when I'm out on my leave in a couple months, board and batten to look something like this
m_staircase-wall-board-and-batten-trim.jpg

I'll just be using 1/4" lattice board, wondering for the handier folks in here what gauge nail gun you recommend? I'm thing a 18g brad nailer should be alright and not split the wood?
 
Gyro25 said:
Figure this may be a better thread to ask this than the home reno thread.. the Wife is planning some projects for me when I'm out on my leave in a couple months, board and batten to look something like this
View attachment 9022768

I'll just be using 1/4" lattice board, wondering for the handier folks in here what gauge nail gun you recommend? I'm thing a 18g brad nailer should be alright and not split the wood?
Click to expand...
I used an 18g nail gun for this wall in my wife's business waiting room and it worked out well.

9CE31D69-86BB-45A7-80ED-21F0AB2E05A1.jpeg
 
Gyro25 said:
Figure this may be a better thread to ask this than the home reno thread.. the Wife is planning some projects for me when I'm out on my leave in a couple months, board and batten to look something like this
View attachment 9022768

I'll just be using 1/4" lattice board, wondering for the handier folks in here what gauge nail gun you recommend? I'm thing a 18g brad nailer should be alright and not split the wood?
Click to expand...
What do you mean by lattice board? I’m unfamiliar with that term (which means I probably heard it called something else).
 
18 Gauge will do great. I have a bunch of Board and batten in my home using MDF and my Milwaukee 18G whips right through.
 
maxw72 said:
18 Gauge will do great. I have a bunch of Board and batten in my home using MDF and my Milwaukee 18G whips right through.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I also have milwauke tools so i'm just hoping it'll go on sale sometime or get some sort of combo deal, $280+ is more than the materials haha
 
Gyro25 said:
Thanks! I also have milwauke tools so i'm just hoping it'll go on sale sometime or get some sort of combo deal, $280+ is more than the materials haha
Click to expand...
I picked it up as a Christmas gift and it has been one of my favorite tools to date!
 
Gyro25 said:
Thanks! I also have milwauke tools so i'm just hoping it'll go on sale sometime or get some sort of combo deal, $280+ is more than the materials haha
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Couple of concerns about the lattice... but these are just my thoughts. I'm no Norm Abrams... more of a Red Green kind of home improvement guy.:ROFLMAO:

If you're getting the lattice in the link you posted, it's finger jointed... that might show up in the right light and at the right angle... it can mostly probably be fixed with some sanding unless there are gaps in the fingers. Wood putty might be friend here. Or sawdust and wood glue.

If you're hanging it I'd think an 18 gauge brad nailer would be good. Maybe something even smaller like a pin nailer... but there's the chance the weight of the wood would pull itself off the wall if the pins aren't long enough. They definitely wouldn't split the wood because they're so small.


If you've already got an air compressor, you can pick up a pneumatic pin nailer for $40. :D

Milwaukee nailers in their M18 Fuel are running $199 (tool only at either Acme Tool or Ohio Power Tool... I forgot which.)
 
Scorpion12 said:
Couple of concerns about the lattice... but these are just my thoughts. I'm no Norm Abrams... more of a Red Green kind of home improvement guy.:ROFLMAO:

If you're getting the lattice in the link you posted, it's finger jointed... that might show up in the right light and at the right angle... it can mostly probably be fixed with some sanding unless there are gaps in the fingers. Wood putty might be friend here. Or sawdust and wood glue.

If you're hanging it I'd think an 18 gauge brad nailer would be good. Maybe something even smaller like a pin nailer... but there's the chance the weight of the wood would pull itself off the wall if the pins aren't long enough. They definitely wouldn't split the wood because they're so small.


If you've already got an air compressor, you can pick up a pneumatic pin nailer for $40. :D

Milwaukee nailers in their M18 Fuel are running $199 (tool only at either Acme Tool or Ohio Power Tool... I forgot which.)
Click to expand...
I’ll tack on a couple thoughts of my own:

The molding linked comes in 8’ lengths. If there are any locations where you are hanging it with >8’ runs you’ll need to plan ahead to minimize the visibility of the joints. Also, the linked molding at 1/4”x1-1/8” won’t have the same visual effect as what’s shown in the picture. If it’s being applied to a small area it may work ok, but IMHO it’ll look out of place if used at the scale shown in the picture.
 
Scorpion12 said:
Couple of concerns about the lattice... but these are just my thoughts. I'm no Norm Abrams... more of a Red Green kind of home improvement guy.:ROFLMAO:

If you're getting the lattice in the link you posted, it's finger jointed... that might show up in the right light and at the right angle... it can mostly probably be fixed with some sanding unless there are gaps in the fingers. Wood putty might be friend here. Or sawdust and wood glue.

If you're hanging it I'd think an 18 gauge brad nailer would be good. Maybe something even smaller like a pin nailer... but there's the chance the weight of the wood would pull itself off the wall if the pins aren't long enough. They definitely wouldn't split the wood because they're so small.


If you've already got an air compressor, you can pick up a pneumatic pin nailer for $40. :D

Milwaukee nailers in their M18 Fuel are running $199 (tool only at either Acme Tool or Ohio Power Tool... I forgot which.)
Click to expand...

Damn I'm not seeing those deals. I'll keep a look out, especially with labor day and black friday eventually.


JohnSinVA said:
I’ll tack on a couple thoughts of my own:

The molding linked comes in 8’ lengths. If there are any locations where you are hanging it with >8’ runs you’ll need to plan ahead to minimize the visibility of the joints. Also, the linked molding at 1/4”x1-1/8” won’t have the same visual effect as what’s shown in the picture. If it’s being applied to a small area it may work ok, but IMHO it’ll look out of place if used at the scale shown in the picture.
Click to expand...

Yeah its not to that same effect, a smaller and not as lit area. I looked up a number of blogs online and it seems the 1/4" is enough to provide the texture she's looking for, especially since I won't have to replace the baseboard moulding

This is the area we would be adding it, with a very poor sketch
IMG_20210817_161140.jpg
 
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Gyro25 said:
Damn I'm not seeing those deals. I'll keep a look out, especially with labor day and black friday eventually.




Yeah its not to that same effect, a smaller and not as lit area. I looked up a number of blogs online and it seems the 1/4" is enough to provide the texture she's looking for, especially since I won't have to replace the baseboard moulding

This is the area we would be adding it, with a very poor sketch
View attachment 9022940
Click to expand...

Is there a reason you don't want to just use an MDF? Paints really well and goes up quick and easy.
 
@Gyro25 if you want a cheap pin nailer you can pick up one from harbor freight for next to nothing. I bought one a while ago and it’s worked flawlessly every time I’ve needed it.

That said I think I would probably use 1”, 18ga brads shot at an angle to hang the moldings. It’ll be some extra work filling the holes but they’ll have plenty of grip.
 
maxw72 said:
Is there a reason you don't want to just use an MDF? Paints really well and goes up quick and easy.
Click to expand...

From what I saw mdf is only available in 1" thick boards. So I would need to replace the baseboard molding for these couple areas and then have mismatched baseboard to the rest of the house.. or cut the bottoms at a significant angle to blend better

The baseboards we have now are actually less than 1/4" thick at the top where the boards would meet.. so the 1/4" is to have it be a little less of gap difference.. hope that makes sense
 
Those deals were just on home depot's webpage. Maybe it's because it's set for South Carolina.

I do know that those other 2 sites I posted Ohio power tool and Acme tool have good deals at times. I picked up a 2 pack of Milwaukee 5AH M18 batteries for almost 1/2 of what Milwaukee wanted. And they're not counterfeit.

Make sure you're looking at tool only deals. Not getting the battery kind of sucks but then again, that's normally almost $80 or more bucks that you get to save.
 
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