Woodworking / Furniture Building

[maxw72]

So I built my first cutting board as it was one of those things I just wanted to try. Pretty happy for it being my first one. Long story short my mother in law wanted to use it as a chacuterie board and by chance the lady at the grocery store was a hobbyist woodworker. Something she said is that the board is not ready to have food on it. I had oiled and conditioned the board and to what I saw it looked safe for use. The lady said it still needs to be oiled and conditioned multiple times for the next couple weeks....Anyone have thoughts on this? I bought my boards from a guy who actually mills the wood for cutting boards specifically and they are kiln dried and advertised as basically being ready to be glued and finished. Weeks on end of conditioning and waxing seemed like a bit much. Pictures are from right after it had been oiled.

 

[maxw72]

Also for those of you who don't know I make and sell golf ball display on Etsy. I had a mom buy two displays for her twin boys and then on a whim she asked if I make them for baseballs as well, I didn't but I thought, it can't be much more difficult than my golf ball displays. A bit of a curve ball came when she asked if I could add a bat holder at the bottom. Needless to say, I now sell baseball displays as well.

 

[Scorp]

So I built my first cutting board as it was one of those things I just wanted to try. Pretty happy for it being my first one. Long story short my mother in law wanted to use it as a chacuterie board and by chance the lady at the grocery store was a hobbyist woodworker. Something she said is that the board is not ready to have food on it. I had oiled and conditioned the board and to what I saw it looked safe for use. The lady said it still needs to be oiled and conditioned multiple times for the next couple weeks....Anyone have thoughts on this? I bought my boards from a guy who actually mills the wood for cutting boards specifically and they are kiln dried and advertised as basically being ready to be glued and finished. Weeks on end of conditioning and waxing seemed like a bit much. Pictures are from right after it had been oiled.

View attachment 9023191View attachment 9023192

Nice! I'm wanting to try this but won't because my wife already has 2 cutting boards she uses.

As for the finish... google says food safe mineral oil then let dry. Then do it again. That's from howardproducts. They make finishes and cutting board stuff.

Reddit says keep applying oil in many coats until it won't absorb any more over the course of a few days...
They also said to use cutting block oil... and butcher block conditioner.

Pfft. I wonder what they used 100 years ago? Tallow. Fat. Lard. Or nothing.

As long as you used an oil intended for that purpose and is food safe, you should be good according to the internet.

Source: me using the internet howardproducts, reddit, google search for "how many coats of oil for a new cutting board".

I've got 2 cutting boards. 1 wooden and 1 bamboo. Neither have ever been oiled. Nor were they oiled when I got them. I don't think. Remember, I'm just a guy on the internet.

 

[GolferGal]

So I built my first cutting board as it was one of those things I just wanted to try. Pretty happy for it being my first one. Long story short my mother in law wanted to use it as a chacuterie board and by chance the lady at the grocery store was a hobbyist woodworker. Something she said is that the board is not ready to have food on it. I had oiled and conditioned the board and to what I saw it looked safe for use. The lady said it still needs to be oiled and conditioned multiple times for the next couple weeks....Anyone have thoughts on this? I bought my boards from a guy who actually mills the wood for cutting boards specifically and they are kiln dried and advertised as basically being ready to be glued and finished. Weeks on end of conditioning and waxing seemed like a bit much. Pictures are from right after it had been oiled.

View attachment 9023191View attachment 9023192

That is gorgeous! I have a weird obsession with cutting boards. I love the varying tones. I think it looks great!

 

[maxw72]

Nice! I'm wanting to try this but won't because my wife already has 2 cutting boards she uses.

As for the finish... google says food safe mineral oil then let dry. Then do it again. That's from howardproducts. They make finishes and cutting board stuff.

Reddit says keep applying oil in many coats until it won't absorb any more over the course of a few days...
They also said to use cutting block oil... and butcher block conditioner.

Pfft. I wonder what they used 100 years ago? Tallow. Fat. Lard. Or nothing.

As long as you used an oil intended for that purpose and is food safe, you should be good according to the internet.

Source: me using the internet howardproducts, reddit, google search for "how many coats of oil for a new cutting board".

I've got 2 cutting boards. 1 wooden and 1 bamboo. Neither have ever been oiled. Nor were they oiled when I got them. I don't think. Remember, I'm just a guy on the internet.

Haha thanks for the internet info! I'm using howard products and I have done a couple coats. It sounds like we have read a lot of the same material!

 

[maxw72]

That is gorgeous! I have a weird obsession with cutting boards. I love the varying tones. I think it looks great!

Thank you so much! I've got a few more I'm making so I'll throw them on here as well!

 

[GolferGal]

Thank you so much! I've got a few more I'm making so I'll throw them on here as well!

Please do, I look forward to seeing them.

 

[Scorp]

Haha thanks for the internet info! I'm using howard products and I have done a couple coats. It sounds like we have read a lot of the same material!

The best place to get info on how to use a product is from the manufacturer. 2 coats... maybe 3... food safe... golden!

 

[maxw72]

Finished up a few projects these past few days. My dads birthday present in a frame I made from some leftover Ipe (our trip to Bandon). @GolferGal the cutring boards you requested.

 

[GolferGal]

Finished up a few projects these past few days. My dads birthday present in a frame I made from some leftover Ipe (our trip to Bandon). @GolferGal the cutring boards you requested.

Wow, those look incredible!! I’m super impressed.

 

[JohnSinVA]

Finished up a few projects these past few days. My dads birthday present in a frame I made from some leftover Ipe (our trip to Bandon). @GolferGal the cutring boards you requested.

The carving boards and frame look great. Well done sir!

 

[maxw72]

Started a new wood hobby this past weekend. My first "decent sized" project I made for fun! Laser engraved Bandon Dunes course layout.

 

[FatChance]

We moved into our new home in Sedona in January (great golfing here, 78* today!) and I finally got time to build a functional workbench for my shop (the reason I bought this house).

This is in no way up to the standards of the incredible projects in this thread, but I humbly submit this because it works so well for my requirements.

It has a Red oak frame with full dimension 1/2" plywood for the drawer unit. It is set up to be easily disassembled, with a Home Depot 1 1/2" laminated birch top held in place by gravity and located with 1/2" dowels, four side stringers attached with bolts and dowel nuts holding it together with rabbets to locate the drawer module sides, two end structural pieces and a removable slideout drawer carcass module. An end vise, removable mechanic's vise bolted into T nuts and also some aluminum T slots let into the top to finish it off. Works for me!

 

[maxw72]

We moved into our new home in Sedona in January (great golfing here, 78* today!) and I finally got time to build a functional workbench for my shop (the reason I bought this house).

This is in no way up to the standards of the incredible projects in this thread, but I humbly submit this because it works so well for my requirements.

It has a Red oak frame with full dimension 1/2" plywood for the drawer unit. It is set up to be easily disassembled, with a Home Depot 1 1/2" laminated birch top held in place by gravity and located with 1/2" dowels, four side stringers attached with bolts and dowel nuts holding it together with rabbets to locate the drawer module sides, two end structural pieces and a removable slideout drawer carcass module. An end vise, removable mechanic's vise bolted into T nuts and also some aluminum T slots let into the top to finish it off. Works for me!

Amazing work!

 

[Junkyard]

We moved into our new home in Sedona in January (great golfing here, 78* today!) and I finally got time to build a functional workbench for my shop (the reason I bought this house).

This is in no way up to the standards of the incredible projects in this thread, but I humbly submit this because it works so well for my requirements.

It has a Red oak frame with full dimension 1/2" plywood for the drawer unit. It is set up to be easily disassembled, with a Home Depot 1 1/2" laminated birch top held in place by gravity and located with 1/2" dowels, four side stringers attached with bolts and dowel nuts holding it together with rabbets to locate the drawer module sides, two end structural pieces and a removable slideout drawer carcass module. An end vise, removable mechanic's vise bolted into T nuts and also some aluminum T slots let into the top to finish it off. Works for me!

That's a great looking bench right there!

 

[Scorp]

I'm looking for ideas on how I should tackle this. It's the backsplash for my kitchen sink. I'm guessing it's just glued to the wall with construction adhesive and where it meets the counter top there's colored caulk. I don't want to damage the sheetrock behind the backsplash. I also don't want to damage the wall treatment above the backsplash.

I replaced the caulk a few years ago because it was separating. But now, the Formica is coming off of the MDF it's glued to right in back of the sink. So the time has come to change it. I'll tackle this project in late December as my wife recovers from surgery. I'll be off for a week or so during that time.

My skillset... I don't smash my thumbs with a hammer, I can paint, I can destroy

I was thinking I could get one of those oscillating tools and use that to get behind the backsplash right against the sheetrock and also right against the countertop and, ideally, the backsplash would come off lickety split.





The backsplash runs the full length of the counter top and is a good I'd say 9 feet long. Maybe more, maybe less.

Ideas?

 

[JohnSinVA]

I'm looking for ideas on how I should tackle this. It's the backsplash for my kitchen sink. I'm guessing it's just glued to the wall with construction adhesive and where it meets the counter top there's colored caulk. I don't want to damage the sheetrock behind the backsplash. I also don't want to damage the wall treatment above the backsplash.

I replaced the caulk a few years ago because it was separating. But now, the Formica is coming off of the MDF it's glued to right in back of the sink. So the time has come to change it. I'll tackle this project in late December as my wife recovers from surgery. I'll be off for a week or so during that time.

My skillset... I don't smash my thumbs with a hammer, I can paint, I can destroy

I was thinking I could get one of those oscillating tools and use that to get behind the backsplash right against the sheetrock and also right against the countertop and, ideally, the backsplash would come off lickety split.

View attachment 9045866

View attachment 9045867

The backsplash runs the full length of the counter top and is a good I'd say 9 feet long. Maybe more, maybe less.

Ideas?

My guess is the whole thing came assembled and that the backsplash is screwed to the countertop from underneath. You could verify by removing the caulk and slipping a putty knife under the backsplash to see if you hit any fasteners.

If you don’t have one of the Fein type oscillating tools then you should go buy one. They make a flat blade that would be ideal for this, especially if the backsplash is glued to the wall. New project, new tool. It’s regulations.

 

[CorvetteGuy]

Did someone mention Cutting Boards.. and try making one with the handle I show -- that was a challenge to figure out how to lock all that together.





these are setting on my solid walnut kitchen table.

 

[Scorp]

My guess is the whole thing came assembled and that the backsplash is screwed to the countertop from underneath. You could verify by removing the caulk and slipping a putty knife under the backsplash to see if you hit any fasteners.

If you don’t have one of the Fein type oscillating tools then you should go buy one. They make a flat blade that would be ideal for this, especially if the backsplash is glued to the wall. New project, new tool. It’s regulations.

Thanks! I've got it worked out... December 12th Ryobi releases their new track system. I want that, the tool storage cabinet, and either a Ryobi or Milwaukee multi-tool. Then I'll take that backsplash off. My wife will be recovering from surgery at the end of December so I'll have that project. And maybe finish hanging the crown molding in my living room.

 

[Grins]

Not actually woodworking, but I figure the guys in this thread are handy & resourceful:

Any suggestions on how to mount these antique irons in a criss-cross pattern on the wall? Here they are on the floor:

 

[CorvetteGuy]

Not actually woodworking, but I figure the guys in this thread are handy & resourceful:

Any suggestions on how to mount these antique irons in a criss-cross pattern on the wall? Here they are on the floor:
View attachment 9052226

I would use one of the many different Cable tie mounts-- Local hardware store may have them. Screw the mount on to the wall -- and then use a cable tie around the shaft -- works pretty well in cases like yours. Lowes ,, Home Depot, McMaster Carr, Ebay - Amazon- all carry these gadgets.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-10-Pack-1-in-Mounting-Base-Cable-Ties/50005766

 

[FatChance]

This jewelry box is my wife's Christmas gift. Don't tell her! This is the first box that I have ever made. Walnut, poplar and red oak with a tung oil finish. I may still put in some felt in the compartment bottoms and maybe a latch hook, but I will leave any upgrades to her choice.

I learned a lot doing this and am planning to make a humidor for myself with similar construction as my next project. :thumb

 

[JohnSinVA]

This jewelry box is my wife's Christmas gift. Don't tell her! This is the first box that I have ever made. Walnut, poplar and red oak with a tung oil finish. I may still put in some felt in the compartment bottoms and maybe a latch hook, but I will leave any upgrades to her choice.

I learned a lot doing this and am planning to make a humidor for myself with similar construction as my next project. :thumb

Nice work!

If you’re considering felt I suggest looking into flocking. Essentially it’s a colored adhesive that you spray fibers onto to give you a finished look that’s easier to do than cutting and fitting felt.

Just Flock It

 

[wubears71]

Alright. I’ve decided it’s time to get a Sawstop. I lIke my fingers.

 

[Carolina Dundee]

Alright. I’ve decided it’s time to get a Sawstop. I lIke my fingers.

What are you going to get with your shop location? Contractor?