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Supertri MWT Setup

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mullie

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Have any of you Supertri users adjusted the weights to bring your spin rate down? My current setup on my 10.5 is 6 heel/14 back/2 toe. I’m trying to get my spin rate down a little and was wondering if any of you went thru this process already and what your experiences were. Being that the weights do cost some bucks, I was hoping to get a feeling of what to expect before purchasing additional weights. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
mullie
 
haven't done that with the weights. I would say your best bet to bring your spin rate down would be a different shaft.
 
I always thought the weights on the TM MWT drivers was too low in the club head to effect spin rate. As said above possibly a shaft change or maybe adding hot melt to the top of the driver closer to the face might be something to look at.
 
Thanks guys. I found some MWT FCT Taylormade charts which shows how each setup affects loft and spin rates. According to the chart I can lessen spin rate up to 850 rpm...i'll give it a try.
 
Let us know what you come up with. I see this subject come up ofter.
 
I too would be interested in these results!
 
I have the original R9 head and have experimited with moving the head and weights around along with switching shafts.

High spins has not been a real problem for me, so I didn't really consentrate a ton on that, however too high of launch was and switching to a Voodoo shaft helped, but brought the flight down too far with a "N" set up and heavy heel weight.

Weight move helped some but switching to a Miyazaki Blue shaft has made all the differance. Mid trajectory that allows higher or lower based on setup, plenty of carry and roll, so spin is correct.

Posted from my BlackBerry using BerryBlab
 
mullie said:
Thanks guys. I found some MWT FCT Taylormade charts which shows how each setup affects loft and spin rates. According to the chart I can lessen spin rate up to 850 rpm...i'll give it a try.
Click to expand...

Can you post the link to this chart please? Can't find anything online! thanks
 
homerun79 said:
Can you post the link to this chart please? Can't find anything online! thanks
Click to expand...

Here is the chart that I use. Sorry I didn't post it sooner... I was on my cell and couldnt get it.

9.5* SuperTri, 1gm x2, 16g x1 weights (Factory Standard)
Spoiler


R SETTING
FACE ANGLE 2* OPEN
EFFECTIVE LOFT 8.5*
LIE ANGLE 59*

HEEL WEIGHTED - NEUTRAL BIAS, -850 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -1.5* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 15 YARD FADE, -450 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.8* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 35 YARD FADE, -950 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -1.8* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS

N/R SETTING
FACE ANGLE 1* OPEN
EFFECTIVE LOFT 9.0*
LIE ANGLE 58.5*

HEEL WEIGHTED - 6 YARD DRAW BIAS, -650 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -1.2* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 9 YARD FADE BIAS, -250 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.5* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 29 YARD FADE BIAS, -750 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -1.5* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS

NU/R SETTING
FACE ANGLE 1* OPEN
EFFECTIVE LOFT 9.0*
LIE ANGLE 59.5*

HEEL WEIGHTED - 8 YARD DRAW BIAS, -600 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -1.2* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 7 YARD FADE, -200 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.4* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 27 YARD FADE, -700 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -1.4* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS

N SETTING
FACE ANGLE SQUARE
EFFECTIVE LOFT 9.5*
LIE ANGLE 58*

HEEL WEIGHTED - 18 YARD DRAW, -400 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.7* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 3 YARD DRAW, 0 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 17 YARD FADE, -500 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -1.0* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS

NU SETTING
FACE ANGLE SQUARE
EFFECTIVE LOFT 9.5*
LIE ANGLE 60*

HEEL WEIGHTED - 22 YARD DRAW BIAS, -300 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.3* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 7 YARD DRAW, +100 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +0.04* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 13 YARD FADE, -400 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.6* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS

N/L SETTING
FACE ANGLE 1* CLOSED
EFFECTIVE LOFT 10.0*
LIE ANGLE 59.5*

HEEL WEIGHTED - 32 YARD DRAW BIAS, -100 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +0.1* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 17 YARD DRAW, +300 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +0.8* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 3 YARD FADE, -200 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.2* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS

NU/L SETTING
FACE ANGLE 1* CLOSED
EFFECTIVE LOFT 10.0*
LIE ANGLE 58.5*

HEEL WEIGHTED - 34 YARD DRAW BIAS, -50 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +0.2* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 19 YARD DRAW, +350 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +0.9* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 1 YARD FADE, -150 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, -0.1* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS

L SETTING
FACE ANGLE 2* CLOSED
EFFECTIVE LOFT 10.5*
LIE ANGLE 59*

HEEL WEIGHTED - 40 YARD DRAW BIAS, +150 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +0.5* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
BACK WEIGHTED - 25 YARD DRAW, +550 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +1.2* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
TOE WEIGHTED - 5 YARD DRAW, +50 RPM BACKSPIN BIAS, +0.2* LAUNCH ANGLE BIAS
 
It is worth getting the weights and trying this out for yourself with different set ups. They are not to expensive on Ebay I think I got mine for about $30.

I played an 8-1-8 set up to get my spin and launch angle down.

Right now I think i'm at 16-1-1 giving it a try
 
I know I'm resurrecting an ancient thread, but the chart in post #9 is relevant. I just got my Supertri today and am trying to gain a better understanding of the setup characteristics. If there's someone who feels they understand the different variations I'd love to have a chat via PM, phone or thru the thread.

My questions for starters:

1. The chart above says opening the face decreases effective loft and vice versa. This is completely counterintuitive to what I know about all other clubs so is it wrong or am I?

2. If both N and NU give you a square face but NU has a 2* upright lie angle, am I correct that like irons, that more upright setup would encourage more of a draw/straighten out a fade?

3. What have people found works best with the weights for different issues?

4. Any good links to charts/instructions?

5. Other things I should know?
 
Flooder said:
I know I'm resurrecting an ancient thread, but the chart in post #9 is relevant. I just got my Supertri today and am trying to gain a better understanding of the setup characteristics. If there's someone who feels they understand the different variations I'd love to have a chat via PM, phone or thru the thread.

My questions for starters:

1. The chart above says opening the face decreases effective loft and vice versa. This is completely counterintuitive to what I know about all other clubs so is it wrong or am I?
The chart is correct. When you open the face of a driver it causes spin to go down which then decreases launch angle.

2. If both N and NU give you a square face but NU has a 2* upright lie angle, am I correct that like irons, that more upright setup would encourage more of a draw/straighten out a fade?
Yes. NU promotes a draw.

3. What have people found works best with the weights for different issues?
In the R11 I had, I liked the weight in the heel to keep the fade/slice minimum and produce a draw.

4. Any good links to charts/instructions?

http://www.taylormadegolf.com/mainlevel/golfshop/drivers/R9-Driver/technology.html?IsPopUp=0

5. Other things I should know? That chart on the link above should help you out..
Click to expand...


Posted my answers in bold... I dont have a Supertri but its same thing with R9 and had the weight technology in the R11 I had a little over a month ago. Hope that helps.
 
The link that bridges put up is a great one.

However I should add that spin going down may lower ball flight, but it is different than loft.
 
Thanks Bridges! That makes sense on the spin reduction (my first question) I was baffled there for a minute as obviously when you open up a wedge you hit it higher not lower, but hadn't thought about the effect to spin. Thanks again. I'm super-psyched to game this baby as I've wanted it for over a year but couldn't justify the $$$ when my driver was only 2 years old.

With the bonus trade in at Dicks and some coupons I had, I got it down to $170 cash. Then it came with a small chip in the crown, when I went in to swap it they didn't have any more and so offered to take $50 off. Figured it was only a matter of time til I dinged it myself, so may as well save fifty bucks! $120 for a new Super-tri, I'll take it!
 
JB said:
The link that bridges put up is a great one.

However I should add that spin going down may lower ball flight, but it is different than loft.
Click to expand...
Yup, you are right, my fault. Meant Launch angle. (fixed my post)




Time for a sig change now, Flooder!
 
Heavy weights in the toe and heel brings the spin down, so try like a 8-1-8 or 10-1-10 6-1-6 or something along those lines, its made a huge difference in my spin when i had 8-1-10, heel being the last and toe being the first.
 
Jimbud said:
I always thought the weights on the TM MWT drivers was too low in the club head to effect spin rate. As said above possibly a shaft change or maybe adding hot melt to the top of the driver closer to the face might be something to look at.
Click to expand...

thats a negative lol, by having heavier weight in the heel and toe so its closer to the face brings the spin down quite a bit.
 
10YardDraw said:
Heavy weights in the toe and heel brings the spin down, so try like a 8-1-8 or 10-1-10 6-1-6 or something along those lines, its made a huge difference in my spin when i had 8-1-10, heel being the last and toe being the first.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm actually looking for more spin - it's why I bought this club - as I've got the world's lowest launch angle and ball flight.
 
Flooder said:
Thanks! I'm actually looking for more spin - it's why I bought this club - as I've got the world's lowest launch angle and ball flight.
Click to expand...

well then the Supertri is the head for you lol, its quite a high spin head, to much for me even with the RIP Alpha, great driver though, i loved it before i switched to the R11
 
Flooder said:
I know I'm resurrecting an ancient thread, but the chart in post #9 is relevant. I just got my Supertri today and am trying to gain a better understanding of the setup characteristics. If there's someone who feels they understand the different variations I'd love to have a chat via PM, phone or thru the thread.

My questions for starters:

1. The chart above says opening the face decreases effective loft and vice versa. This is completely counterintuitive to what I know about all other clubs so is it wrong or am I?

2. If both N and NU give you a square face but NU has a 2* upright lie angle, am I correct that like irons, that more upright setup would encourage more of a draw/straighten out a fade?

3. What have people found works best with the weights for different issues?

4. Any good links to charts/instructions?

5. Other things I should know?
Click to expand...

1. The chart above says opening the face decreases effective loft and vice versa. This is completely counterintuitive to what I know about all other clubs so is it wrong or am I?

The chart is correct

2. If both N and NU give you a square face but NU has a 2* upright lie angle, am I correct that like irons, that more upright setup would encourage more of a draw/straighten out a fade?

Upright lies will give you a slight draw bias

3. What have people found works best with the weights for different issues?

Weights move the center of gravity, think of it as where you move the center of gravity is where the ball will fly

4. Any good links to charts/instructions?

trial by error :D

5. Other things I should know?

not really anything I can think of, if you are looking for more spin keep the COG back in the head and maybe look into a different shaft. Great thing about the R line is being able to change out shafts easily.

Good luck!
 
Yes opening the face delofts the club, closing it adds loft, NU is 1*upright by all the charts i have, upright should be a little more draw bias
 
Bomb_n_Gouge said:
1. The chart above says opening the face decreases effective loft and vice versa. This is completely counterintuitive to what I know about all other clubs so is it wrong or am I?

The chart is correct

2. If both N and NU give you a square face but NU has a 2* upright lie angle, am I correct that like irons, that more upright setup would encourage more of a draw/straighten out a fade?

Upright lies will give you a slight draw bias

3. What have people found works best with the weights for different issues?

Weights move the center of gravity, think of it as where you move the center of gravity is where the ball will fly

4. Any good links to charts/instructions?

trial by error :D

5. Other things I should know?

not really anything I can think of, if you are looking for more spin keep the COG back in the head and maybe look into a different shaft. Great thing about the R line is being able to change out shafts easily.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

10YardDraw said:
Yes opening the face delofts the club, closing it adds loft, NU is 1*upright by all the charts i have, upright should be a little more draw bias
Click to expand...

Skimmers. :alien:
 
Bridges said:
Well considering I just said basically the same thing on the previous page Im guessing you might have a little. :act-up:
Click to expand...

its says ok ok maybe i have after it, did you delete that part?
 
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