Do you have a multimeter, and if so, some basic level knowledge of how to use it? Could save you a lot of time and trouble.
THP Auto Repair Shop
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- #652
Why yes yes I do.
Check the fuse with the multi meter for continuity. Then check the bulb. If both are good, then you will likely have a bad ground or bad housing in the lights, and can troubleshoot that with someone pressing the brakes.
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- #654
5 quarts of 0w-20 Synthetic and an oil filter was $65.00 today! SMH
Oil changes are killing me... 4+ qts for the subaru, 7+ for the Sierra, and nearly 6 for the GLA. Only saving grace is I can do the subaru and the sierra on the same oil and they always seem to be due at the same time.
The pricing of individual quarts is what's brutal. $28 for 5qt bottle. But a single quart is $8.50. WTF man...
Not sure if you have a vehicle that has a requirement spec (like VW and their 50x.xx) but Costco has their 2 pack of 5 quart jugs synthetic for $32.00 shipped right now. Believe they have 0-20, 5-20 and 5-30 in those. Might be just a tad cheaper in store. Breaks down to $3.2 per quart.
If anyone wonders, you should be ok to store unopen oil in like a garage for several years without any issues such as the additives breaking down.
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- #657
Costco oil is bottled by Warren MFG., who bottles Walmart and Amazon oil. It’s tested well in reports.
I wish I could service my own trucks for less than $100. Fuel filters, oil filter, and oil are north of that for both the Cummins and DirtyMax.
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- #659
Follow up on the running light for my son's Honda Civic. It was a fuse under the hood. When replaced one of the side marker lights caught on fire before popping the fuse again. Come to find out it was an aftermarket light and the plug had been corroded which led to the issue. Removed the light and all is right with the car now. So weird.
Electrical gremlins are the best...
My mini keeps giving a code that a light is out.. but all lights are working. I'll troubleshoot that when warmer. Our 3rd vehicle (for snow / putting a jon boat in to fish with the kids) is an older F150. When we got some snow I put it in 4wd and it threw a code and said no. Apparently the electric motor that engages / disengages the 4wd is the culprit so hoping to get that swapped out this weekend since we have warm(ish) weather.
Those can be a pain in the but. When you’re ready to look at it let me know and I’ll see if I can pull a schematic for you. That will show all the lights that your car is supposed to have.
Edit: the mini that is.
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Actuator I'm assuming you're talking about? Some are super easy, some not so much. Hope yours is one of the easy ones.
My F350 has a leak somewhere in thy vacuum system (thinking it's the hubs possibly) so no heat other than defrost and no automatic hubs. Just glad it has manual hubs so you can still use the 4wd.
99 diesel
Yeah, i replaced a lot of the lines and have half ass looked at the reservoir under the hood. Haven't dug too much into it since it still works, but would be nice to have floor heat.
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- #669
This
I appreciate that @billyh and will have to take you up on that. I hope you and your family are well brother! We will have to find a way to tee it up again this year!
Yes, the actuator. I've heard that it is actually the sensor which corrodes and you can extend the life of it. That being said, it looks relatively simple for this model. The one tricky part is that you have to pull one wire/ pin out of the wiring harness of the actuator wiring harness and install it in the new actuator. Then it's just making sure the new sensor is aligned the same.
Is there a way to check the pump?
Well ****, I don't have one of those of course.
There are some cheap options for this part. I have had good luck with Dorman products but they are not the cheapest option most times.