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THP Auto Repair Shop

Bus said:
Assuming this will be fine for as unoften as I'll use it?

www.harborfreight.com

Fuel Pump and Vacuum Tester

Amazing deals on this Fuel Pump /Vacuum Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

I've never actually used one before, but they seem pretty self-explanatory?
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Yes sir. Make sure the electric vacuum pump operates. Then check to see if it will pull a vacuum. Also, look to see if any vacuum hoses have dry rotted which is pretty common especially near the wheel hubs.
 
Thrillbilly Jim said:
Yes sir. Make sure the electric vacuum pump operates. Then check to see if it will pull a vacuum. Also, look to see if any vacuum hoses have dry rotted which is pretty common especially near the wheel hubs.
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I already checked and replaced several lines. Next stop was the reservoir, never considered the pump for some reason. 🤦‍♂️

Have also read the actual hubs leaking is fairly common too, really hoping that isn't the problem.
 
Bus said:
I already checked and replaced several lines. Next stop was the reservoir, never considered the pump for some reason. 🤦‍♂️

Have also read the actual hubs leaking is fairly common too, really hoping that isn't the problem.
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Does the vacuum pump run when you turn on the ignition? It should vibrate when the key is on.
 
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Dumb question, asked by a 44 yr old who should know this.

How often should a person be changing their oil? Synthetic oil. 2020 Dodge Caravan. Manual says 6500kms if harsh conditions (dirty/heavy idling). Other things say 10,000 kms.

My van is due soon, or I think it is, based on the sticker the dealer gives me.

At work we do a 6,000 km interval on our fleet, but I never know because the Dodge isn't like my wife's Honda that politely says "please change your oil now".
 
Just_Brad said:
Dumb question, asked by a 44 yr old who should know this.

How often should a person be changing their oil? Synthetic oil. 2020 Dodge Caravan. Manual says 6500kms if harsh conditions (dirty/heavy idling). Other things say 10,000 kms.

My van is due soon, or I think it is, based on the sticker the dealer gives me.

At work we do a 6,000 km interval on our fleet, but I never know because the Dodge isn't like my wife's Honda that politely says "please change your oil now".
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If the vehicle is still under warranty, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. I like to change my oil often. It really helps an engine to last. I change mine every 5000 miles/ 8000 Km when using fully synthetic oil. If you really want to know, do an engine oil analysis. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
 
Replaced passenger headlight a few weeks ago, this morning drivers side went out...should have just replaced them both but man why do they have to make it such a pain!
 
Fun story today, friends BMW X5 with about 45k miles on it has been acting up lately. Took it in for service and they claim a roof leak from the shark fin antenna is causing the electrical problems. Water leaks not covered under CPO warranty. They want to do a coolant flush and replace front brake pads and rotors too $4300 total. Oh and 2 weeks ago when it was in for an oil change they recommended spark plugs. WTF
 
jdtox said:
Fun story today, friends BMW X5 with about 45k miles on it has been acting up lately. Took it in for service and they claim a roof leak from the shark fin antenna is causing the electrical problems. Water leaks not covered under CPO warranty. They want to do a coolant flush and replace front brake pads and rotors too $4300 total. Oh and 2 weeks ago when it was in for an oil change they recommended spark plugs. WTF
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BMW= Big Money Waster
 
A question for the experts,my wife has a 2012 Honda Civic with apporx. 105k miles.I have been hearing a slight noise( Whining ?) from the front as the car is driven.It has gotten fairly loud so I need it checked.The faster the car, the louder the noise.It sounds like the left front but can't be sure.I am thinking CV joint or wheel bearing .Any clue to which or even if it could be a trans issue?Any known common issues? Just trying to figure what kind of $ I am looking at.
 
tvrepairex said:
A question for the experts,my wife has a 2012 Honda Civic with apporx. 105k miles.I have been hearing a slight noise( Whining ?) from the front as the car is driven.It has gotten fairly loud so I need it checked.The faster the car, the louder the noise.It sounds like the left front but can't be sure.I am thinking CV joint or wheel bearing .Any clue to which or even if it could be a trans issue?Any known common issues? Just trying to figure what kind of $ I am looking at.
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One way to rule out the transmission is to put the transmission in neutral when you hear the noise. This will unload the transmission. If the noise goes away it’s transmission related, if it stays, it’s something else.
 
You can also turn the wheels to both the right and left while it is making the noise and see if it decreases when it is turned one way and that will point to the issue potentially being a wheel bearing, as they get loaded or unloaded with vehicle weight and torque.
 
tvrepairex said:
A question for the experts,my wife has a 2012 Honda Civic with apporx. 105k miles.I have been hearing a slight noise( Whining ?) from the front as the car is driven.It has gotten fairly loud so I need it checked.The faster the car, the louder the noise.It sounds like the left front but can't be sure.I am thinking CV joint or wheel bearing .Any clue to which or even if it could be a trans issue?Any known common issues? Just trying to figure what kind of $ I am looking at.
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Power steering pump and alternator are in that area also. If it’s in park/neutral and making that sound it’s definitely not a powertrain issue and likely one of those, or a pulley on your serpentine belt. All of those will give off a whine noise associated with an increase of engine rpm.

Wheel and hub bearings usually will not whine as much and be more of a growl of sorts. They get louder when vehicle speed increases, not engine rpm. To diagnose, run the car at 45mph+ and gently move the steering wheel left and right (light swerving in your lane). When the car is moving to the right you are loading the left (drivers side) wheel bering causing it to get louder and vice versa. A bad axle typically will cause a vibration from the C/V shaft slipping or binding.

Pretty simple to diag the noise you’re hearing on that car. As far as how much it’s going to cost… It’s a Honda so it could be less than $100 if you’re going to fix it to almost a grand taking it to a shop.
 
Just_Brad said:
Dumb question, asked by a 44 yr old who should know this.

How often should a person be changing their oil? Synthetic oil. 2020 Dodge Caravan. Manual says 6500kms if harsh conditions (dirty/heavy idling). Other things say 10,000 kms.

My van is due soon, or I think it is, based on the sticker the dealer gives me.

At work we do a 6,000 km interval on our fleet, but I never know because the Dodge isn't like my wife's Honda that politely says "please change your oil now".
Click to expand...
For me when using pure Synthetic and mainly Highway ill change at 7000 miles, not the 10000 BMW suggests (and owners wonder why there's varnish on internals). But if there's more around town I'll change Filter at 4000 and Oil and Filter at 7000. Synthetic doesn't break down and separate like Dino Oils put it will hold contaminates.
 
Thrillbilly Jim said:
BMW= Big Money Waster
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I know 1st hand. Rotated tires on Ridgeline and found Axle Boot ripped. Had replaced Struts a short time ago and did not want to deal with Axle nut again. Firestone installed $380.
Replaced Rotors last Weekend on GT and found Boot torn... $1200 OUCH
 
Well damn, wife's 2013 Kia Sorento overheated and was smoking on the highway today.

I let it cool then drove it the half mile to HD where I added some coolant which was at the L, but then upon driving again the temp shot all the way up again

I did notice that above the radiator there was basically moisture like something blew, and a little bit of a thicker substance.

Ultimately has to leave it at a mavis since the shops I usually use were like a week out and I wouldve had to wait for a tow too.

Front the sound of things, maybe the water pump?
 
Gyro25 said:
Well damn, wife's 2013 Kia Sorento overheated and was smoking on the highway today.

I let it cool then drove it the half mile to HD where I added some coolant which was at the L, but then upon driving again the temp shot all the way up again

I did notice that above the radiator there was basically moisture like something blew, and a little bit of a thicker substance.

Ultimately has to leave it at a mavis since the shops I usually use were like a week out and I wouldve had to wait for a tow too.

Front the sound of things, maybe the water pump?
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Hard to say. Need to pressure test it to verify.
 
Gyro25 said:
Well damn, wife's 2013 Kia Sorento overheated and was smoking on the highway today.

I let it cool then drove it the half mile to HD where I added some coolant which was at the L, but then upon driving again the temp shot all the way up again

I did notice that above the radiator there was basically moisture like something blew, and a little bit of a thicker substance.

Ultimately has to leave it at a mavis since the shops I usually use were like a week out and I wouldve had to wait for a tow too.

Front the sound of things, maybe the water pump?
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If water pump no heat. Maybe thermostat
 
4hourrule said:
If water pump no heat. Maybe thermostat
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Her heat was not on this morning, but at some point on the way up she did shut down the car and restarted it and the heat worked.

She doesn't remember if the heat was flowing on the way home when it blew, she was sweating and didn't have it on.

Thermostat I gather is a much cheaper fix?


Thrillbilly Jim said:
Hard to say. Need to pressure test it to verify.
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Thanks for the info
 
@Thrillbilly Jim @4hourrule

Apparently radiator is cracked, mavis I had it at quoted me 950 for radiator, hoses, thermostat, gasket, radiator fluid.

I'm moving it over to a shop I trust more, even if the same price id rather the quality work, but he rough quoted me 600-800 so we shall see.

Just gotta borrow a car for a week
 
Anyone have any experience sourcing and replacing Infiniti QX60 driver side power window system? The auto-pinch will lock the window out from closing, especially in cold weather, it's like motor doesn't have enough torque to over come the seals. Lubricated and it seems warmer Temps is only thing that helps.
 
Gyro25 said:
Her heat was not on this morning, but at some point on the way up she did shut down the car and restarted it and the heat worked.

She doesn't remember if the heat was flowing on the way home when it blew, she was sweating and didn't have it on.

Thermostat I gather is a much cheaper fix?



Thanks for the info
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If you can easily get to Thermostat, remove it (if separate) and reinstall housing. Drive and if no longer over heats Thermostat is problem
 
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