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How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

Nippon Shafts
Mward said:
Just out of curiosity, was this a brand new wedge? Or one you were just messing around with? Only reason I ask is because if you bored the hosel diameter out to a rough .370, that would have been an expensive gamble in case it somehow snapped.
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It was an old one, but my gaming one. Worse case scenario, I need a new wedge.
 
bbuonic81 said:
Can't recommend doing your own club work enough. It's fun, a great way to spend some time with your precious equipment during the off season, and really so much cheaper than having someone else do it (I can't believe what shops get away with charging).
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I couldn't agree with this more
 
AngryYankee said:
It was an old one, but my gaming one. Worse case scenario, I need a new wedge.
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If it's not something you mind losing, no harm or foul in experimenting. If if breaks, you can go buy a new wedge with a spinner shaft already installed

That being said, I don't think you're going to like the results of a 1.5in tipped spinner shaft. I don't even know what flex you just turned that into.

What loft is that wedge you're trying?
 
Mward said:
If it's not something you mind losing, no harm or foul in experimenting. If if breaks, you can go buy a new wedge with a spinner shaft already installed

That being said, I don't think you're going to like the results of a 1.5in tipped spinner shaft. I don't even know what flex you just turned that into.

What loft is that wedge you're trying?
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56* wedge. Came home and did some light tight lie and bounce chipping and everything felt nice. Good length and weight distribution. I chip/pitch using the pocket of the heel so it's real close to the shaft. It is a wedge specific shaft so if anything I made it a little stiffer. I am more concerned about how little the shaft is seated in the club head.
Gonna take it for range work this weekend and I hope everything holds up, otherwise I have an excuse to get a new wedge.
 
Hi all,

Have taken up this wonderful game after more than 10 years of "children".. :blob:

I have started to regrip and reshaft myself and I find it really easy to do. There are a few things that you have to keep in mind when doing this.

1. Take it easy and really investigate how to trim the tip and butt (google it).
2. Make sure you get rid of all epoxy when removing the old shaft.
3. Use a good epoxy made for this purpose and let it dry long enough. Save the rest of the epoxy you have used to see if it is hard.
4. If changing a driver shaft, make sure you dont cut it to short the first time. When I swapped my standard shaft in my taylormade burner 09 with a Graffaloy Booyah X-stiff I started with 47" (total) and then cut it down to 46,5" (total) and now I have a canon.
 
Thanks again for doing this Hawk, giving it my first attempt today on the CTL'S with Altitudes.
 
#Cookie said:
Thanks again for doing this Hawk, giving it my first attempt today on the CTL'S with Altitudes.
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Call me if you need help
 
Good luck Cookie.
 
Step 1 easy enough with the wife's craft heat gun:

 
You have shims cookie?
 
Ummm no....

Please don't tell me I need them.
 
Yea you will. Those are taper tip shafts and the Alts are .370

Talk to James about a diy alternative.
 
Hawk said:
You have shims cookie?
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Good catch Hawk, the Alts are .370 and CTL's are .355 cookie, I had to shim my set. Easy stuff, just need to have the shims.
 
Eh freak. Just confirmed what you dudes are saying. That puts a serious damper on this today.

Eff me.
 
DIY? Meeee?

It's tedious cookie but you can actually use an aluminum can. You cut four narrow (about the width of two toothpicks) strips for each club and they need to be the depth of the hosel, from there you rough them up, put epoxy on the tip and place them and then a bit of epoxy in the hosel as well. It's tedious, but it works if you don't have shims.
 
Thanks James...think I will just order some shims. I would screw up the can thing.

They are all cleaned up now and ready to be shafted once I have the shims.

Now to figure out how to shaft them...I have 3-PW shafts but installing them in 6-DW heads.

Put 5-PW shafts into 6-DW heads? That would be hard stepping I think and they would play a tad stiffer I believe. If I did that would I need to butt trim the shafts at all?
 
Also, when I go to order shims, am I looking for taper .370 shims?
 
#Cookie said:
Thanks James...think I will just order some shims. I would screw up the can thing.

They are all cleaned up now and ready to be shafted once I have the shims.

Now to figure out how to shaft them...I have 3-PW shafts but installing them in 6-DW heads.

Put 5-PW shafts into 6-DW heads? That would be hard stepping I think and they would play a tad stiffer I believe. If I did that would I need to butt trim the shafts at all?
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I believe it's the opposite. It would be soft-stepping and they would play less firm. Putting the 7 shaft into the 6 would be hard stepping.
 
Thanks Pete, I would be ok with that in these since the shafts are stiff.

I'm gonna check and see if GolfSmith happens to have shims in store....doubtful though.
 
Just remember you may to have to trim if you soft step. Depending on the length of the ctl. Measure before you commit to that. I did it with my ap1's and it worked out very well.
 
#Cookie said:
Thanks Pete, I would be ok with that in these since the shafts are stiff.

I'm gonna check and see if GolfSmith happens to have shims in store....doubtful though.
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It's something I've considered doing (soft-stepping a heavier shaft), but currently that is on hold. I think a soft-stepped Stiff KBS Tour would work well for me--but that's the internet golfer talking.
 
Correction, I actually have 5-PW shafts NOT 3-PW.

Longest shaft is 37".
 
#Cookie said:
I'm gonna check and see if GolfSmith happens to have shims in store....doubtful though.
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Dont forget to check with the guy who repairs clubs etc. I needed some different fuerrels once and he just handed me some. You have a pretty big Golfsmith there IIRC, so the shims should be no problem I would think.

JM
 
I'd be surprised if they didn't have shims Cookie.
 
Did you guys up or find that it's like ridiculously hard to get some ferrules up the shaft? I can't seem to get these more than a half-inch up the shaft.

.355 shafts & .355 ferrules.

Should I drill out ever so slightly the inside of the ferrule?
 
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