I pick the lofts not so much to fill gaps, but to hit certain shots. I can take a 48* in pretty darn low so that's why I carry that. Distance wise it's pretty interchangeable with the 52* that I take in higher as I never really take a full swing at the 48*, but hit a PW for that. I hit the 48* more at my last club and could probably get away with dropping it for where I play now, but there's a shot or two I hit with it, and it doesn't deprive me of another club I think I need so it stays. I chip with both the 48* and the 52* depending on the lie or rollout. I like a 58* because I can hit lob/flop shots with it, and because I like a sand wedge with low bounce and the bounce on it is 8*. It does double duty. I could flop a 56*, but in lefty most come with more bounce than I want, 12-14*, or need at my club. Hell, I can flop my 52* if I have to, but I don't like that loft out of the sand.

Actually when I think of it, bounce may have more influence on my choices than loft, as how far they go isn't generally my focus with specialty wedges. I also like the looks of the Titleist wedges which is hugely important. Cleveland wedges appeal to my eye, too, but I have bounce issues with them.

What a mess this post was. Does it even make sense?

Kevin

Great point about the bounce. That's another huge problem most make with their wedges.

I don't think this post is a mess. It's a great topic and could really help a bunch of golfers.
 
I don't think JB and I are saying we're against carrying multiple wedges once you learn how to hit all sorts of shots. We are saying it's much easier to learn all the intricacies of the short game by starting with one wedge. At least that's how I've interpreted it.

We're on the same page, I think we're differing on when the right time is to learn to play those shots...
 
Do you think this is more important for a high indexed player or a mid to lower handicap player ? I do think to be a really good short game player you need to know how to play a variety of short game shots, but for high handicaps would it be more important to focus on a single consistent shot or trying to attempt different shot and manipulate an inconsistent swing?

You are still missing my entire point. Nobody is asking people NOT to carry multiple wedges. The thread is not about the game, its about how people choose their wedges and this particular club maker (and I agree) is seeing higher indexed players grabbing wedges in bunches for the reasons I listed rather than learning how to use wedges properly and in turn most likely buying the wrong wedges for their game.
 
I don't think JB and I are saying we're against carrying multiple wedges once you learn how to hit all sorts of shots. We are saying it's much easier to learn all the intricacies of the short game by starting with one wedge. At least that's how I've interpreted it.

And I agree with you. My short game has gotten a lot better since I took one wedge and learned to play every shot within 60 yards with it. Now I can take those skills to the other clubs in my bag.
 
We're on the same page, I think we're differing on when the right time is to learn to play those shots...

The beginning is the best time, because you're going to have tons of shots inside 50 yards and in every different part of courses. I also think the best way to learn the game and lower your handicap is to learn it backwards. Start on the green and work your way back.
 
I don't think this post is a mess. It's a great topic and could really help a bunch of golfers.

The thread is really good, my post was kind of a mess.

I carry different wedges, but learned over the course of my golfing life to hit a lot of different shots with just a PW and a SW, and still could if I had to. I'm glad I don't because the others make creative shots easier. So I agree with JB, you, and JB's wedge guy.

Kevin
 
I've re-read the OP, but I don't see why the 2 reasons listed need to be mutually exclusive? ( It may just be me completely not getting what you're trying to say was well)
 
The beginning is the best time, because you're going to have tons of shots inside 50 yards and in every different part of courses. I also think the best way to learn the game and lower your handicap is to learn it backwards. Start on the green and work your way back.

That I don't agree with it, I think you should learn to play a consistent shot, chip before you start to manipulate it (unless you're willing to work hard and consistantly work on short game)
 
I think you are missing the point of what he is trying to say. He is saying that golfers are using the extra wedges as a crutch because they never learn to do things another way. By taking that crutch away from them, they MUST learn and become far better around the greens because of it.


We are talking about INSIDE of 50 yards in this case, not full wedge swings in many of these instances.
That's just one person's theory. And, even if it's true, if the crutch helps the golfer put the ball in the hole with less strokes than crutch away. That same logic could be applied to hybrids. Some would argue that hybrids are crutches as are long putters.
 
That's just one person's theory. And, even if it's true, if the crutch helps the golfer put the ball in the hole with less strokes than crutch away. That same logic could be applied to hybrids. Some would argue that hybrids are crutches as are long putters.

I dont recall saying it is fact. I think that was the point of the entire thread as it was laid out in the OP. to DISCUSS what HIS thoughts are.

And I would hardly compare the same logic to hybrids, but whatever works
 
I might carry various wedges but other than my set's stock PW (47*), the only wedge that I recall using in the past season+ is my 54/10. From 100 yds to greenside, I haven't found myself wanting to go with other wedges. A couple of seasons ago, I carried G/S/L wedges, even had multiples of some in different lofts or bounce. I could take a while to pick a wedge and make a shot runnng through the various options. Now, I grab the one wedge and try to visualize the shot by feel. Last season, I dropped from an off 16 to off 12 and broke 80 for the first time. I will admit that having a medium bounce wede with a dynamic sole grind certainly makes the one option more flexible.
 
I dont recall saying it is fact. I think that was the point of the entire thread as it was laid out in the OP. to DISCUSS what HIS thoughts are.

And I would hardly compare the same logic to hybrids, but whatever works
I didn't use the word "fact". I used the word "theory". And I was discussing his thoughts, who else's was there to discuss? But for him to call the extra wedges a "crutch" I found to be a bit unfair. As to the whatever works comment?
 
My most lofted wedge is my sand, that is the one I'll attempt 3/4, 1/2 swings with. So for me I want to fill the gaps evenly. I carry p,g,s wedges.
After reading through all the posts I should clarify I am referring to my pitching, lob type swing with these clubs. I chip with anything from an 8-sw
 
For me, wedges are for touch shots. Anything with a loft of over 50* I (Probably) won't use outside of 100 yards.
 
I have found that using my 54* wedge for most of my feel shots has been the key, and only use my 58* when there is no other option.
 
Because of my uneducated nature, I bought based on what I was advised (54) and then on a whim/for my own enjoyment (58). We do not have the proper facility to test wedges, so it was really which one looked nice, and had good reviews.
 
That's just one person's theory. And, even if it's true, if the crutch helps the golfer put the ball in the hole with less strokes than crutch away. That same logic could be applied to hybrids. Some would argue that hybrids are crutches as are long putters.

Hybrids are not a crutch in that sense. You still have to learn a good consistent swing to use it properly.
With wedges there are many shots and swings that should be learned and considered, rather than take a lob wedge and just fly it to the hole.

Edit: Long putters arn't a crutch either, they're a sign that says laugh at me while I hold this up. :D
 
I was speaking with a club maker today about consumers and amateur golfers and their choosing of wedges. He said he always hears two factors when choosing wedges.

From the golfer:

1. I choose it based on lofts so that I can have full swings and no gaps at the top.

2. I choose based on the soft feel I am looking for, for my touch shots.

His question was this. If #1 is the reason, is feel even really as noticeable? And if it is #2, and it is all about touch shots, is #1 really needed?

Very interesting point of view from someone that has made some incredible wedges over the years. I am sure I am not explaining as well as his questions asked, but they did make sense to me at the time.

What are your thoughts? What makes you choose your wedges?

I very rarely take a full swing with my wedges so I don't go by 1. I think I mainly hit the wedges I can try out and pick the one that hits the chip shots the best. It is also a big deal to me how the wedge frames the ball.
 
This is an interesting topic. I started to go over some of my old rounds and noticed I was losing a lot of shots from full wedge shots. What I mean is I have specific distances Ill hit my 50 or 56*. I even used to have a LW. IMO Wedges are hard to hit full shots with. And I often mishit them so even my ideal distance is off anyway haha. Im really considering going to PW, 56* setup and just even losing the 50*. If I could just hit a variety of shots with the 56* I think I'd be better off.

Kinda tunnel vision on my part but I only looked at full shot distances. I'm starting to realize it's easier to hit my PW 100 yards than my 50*. Feel was a consideration (not feel shot, club feel) but that was when I already made up my mind on lofts.

I was speaking with a club maker today about consumers and amateur golfers and their choosing of wedges. He said he always hears two factors when choosing wedges.

From the golfer:

1. I choose it based on lofts so that I can have full swings and no gaps at the top.

2. I choose based on the soft feel I am looking for, for my touch shots.

His question was this. If #1 is the reason, is feel even really as noticeable? And if it is #2, and it is all about touch shots, is #1 really needed?

Very interesting point of view from someone that has made some incredible wedges over the years. I am sure I am not explaining as well as his questions asked, but they did make sense to me at the time.

What are your thoughts? What makes you choose your wedges?
 
Hybrids are not a crutch in that sense. You still have to learn a good consistent swing to use it properly.
With wedges there are many shots and swings that should be learned and considered, rather than take a lob wedge and just fly it to the hole.

Edit: Long putters arn't a crutch either, they're a sign that says laugh at me while I hold this up. :D
Which is why I practice my wedge game incessantly. :)
 
My wedge set up is PW (47*), GW (52*), SW (56*), LW (60*)

Now that I have a new PW I could probably drop my gap wedge. I wont, but I probably could. In my old iron set the PW was just too bulky to really work- it flew high and straight and was very tough to lower the flight or take distance off of it.

Before I answer the OP I'll state my uses for each wedge.
GW- Full shots from 115-100, 3/4 shot from 100-80. Roughly 4 shots a round
SW- Everything from 80 and in. 1 to 2 full shots. Upwards of 8-12 chip/green side shots.
LW- Specialty shots (short sided w/ bunker carry, tight flop shot). It gets used 1 time a round, max. Every shot I take with the LW I could make with the SW. It is my lowest bounce wedge which is why I will tend to use it for flop type shots.

The things I love about my wedges:
I always grab the 56* when I am close to the green. In general, I don't even take the 60* with me... I'll go back and pull it if I decide I need it. Since I started doing this I have had a lot more confidence in my short game. I just know how my 56* is going to play and what the ball is going to do. It has become predictable and reliable. It is also flexible enough for me to take several different styles of shot (pitch+run, flop, check+stop) with the same wedge.

I decided to use the xFT wedges across all my lofts. I also have no intention of ever changing my wedges again, just the face plates as needed. With the short game being so "feel" based, I will learn the wedges inside and out. I know how it will bounce, if it will dig, what the spin will do, and how the ball will react off the club face. Instead of learning a new wedge every year or two, I'll be able to dial it in with these wedges and not worry about changing bounce/weight/style. I think this could be a huge advantage for developing consistency around the green.

To answer the OP.
I choose mine based on gaps based on a full swing, but once I get out of the full swing range (80 and in) I use only one wedge for the "feel" issue. In that way, I blend both #1 and #2. I tend to agree with you, and several of the posters, that my short game has improved since using only one wedge for everything. I appreciate the flexibility of being able to pull a 52* for a long bunker shot or the 60* for a hardpan flop over a bunker, but they are all shots I COULD hit with the 56*. If I needed to fill a gap at the top of my bag I could easily pull the 52* and 60* to make room... but I don't have a gap that I feel needs filled at this time (maybe i'll put an M3 in to fill the gap between M2 and M4). The other major factor in me buying wedges was consistency across the set, and knowing that I won't have to change the physical wedge for a long time.
 
Interesting thread. to answer JB's initial post.

I bought 3 wedges to fill out my set of clubs. I hit my 50* from 120-100 (so the 120 yard shot is def a full swing; the 100 more feel/touch)
the 55* is around 75-95 (same principle as before) ***bent 56
and the 60* id like to think 50-60 yards.

But like it has been discussed- i dont do well with the 60.

The FEEL you mention under 50 yards and in and around the green - is where i am lacking. I dont have the creativity most of you lower handicappers are speaking of. It is my goal this year to work very hard on my short game - i think i can drop a ton of strokes off if i could just save par inside 50 yards. (or bogey for that matter)

There was an article in golf digest ( i think) that mentioned this - the average amateur shouldnt try and hit a 60* ever. Work with a 56 for years until he gets down into the single digit handicap. I think it was one of those whos who of instruction (butch, Haney, etc)
they kept mentioning Seve Ballesteros who learned the short game with a 3 iron or something crazy like that. He gamed a 56* his whole career and could work magic with it.

Since i read that article I am taking it to heart - I would rather master one club, than be a "joker of all trades" with 3.

Ill still probably keep 3 wedges - unless some epiphany happens at demo day and i feel the need to replace the 60 with a higher hybrid/iron. Well see - Im trying to go to demo day with an open mind - and hopefully learn a thing a two.

I would kill for the chance to see some of you short game gurus play the game up close while im down there. Im a visual learner- so seeing and doing is my thing. Talking about it or reading about it doesnt do me a whole heck of a lot of good!
 
3-4 years ago when my game was still very beginnerish, I bought the GW-SW-LW combo based on filling yardage gaps. I was not confident in less than full swing situations, and this was how I chose to address the problem (as opposed to learning to hit partial distance shots). Of course, this still left me with problems on shots in the 40-90 yard range, which is where I started to learn to hit a partial shot (primarily with the LW).

This past fall, I bought 2 new Mizzie wedges, not so much to fill gaps but to perform the types of short game shots I typically need to hit. I went with these wedges primarily based on feel and performance. So now I no longer even play a gap wedge, using PW down to about 115 yards, then SW down to about 100 yards, and then LW or SW for shots 100 and in depending on whether I need to really spin it or hit into wind, etc. I also use the 60* LW for most sand shots, and chips around the green when short sided or the ball is sitting down in nasty rough.

SW through 7 iron I use for chips with varying amounts of green to work with. For very fast greens, I primarily chip just with the SW and LW.

I am now much more confident hitting partial distance shots with my wedges. I could probably get rid of the 2 wedges and go with a single 56 or 58 degree wedge and be a happy camper, as long as the wedge didn't have a lot of bounce on it. But I think having the 2 loft options buys me more stroke saves than a single wedge and having 1 extra long club in my bag, so I'm satisfied with my current setup. Probably will not go back to using a GW unless I start gaming a very strong lofted PW again.
 
since I'm new to golf, I don't really know what I'm doing, and don't really have a clue of what I need, I bought my wedges based on the general consensus that you need them to fill in the gaps in the lofts. I'm sure as I get more comfortable with my shot making and my new clubs, I'll get a better scope on what every club in my bag is capable of and where it fits into my game.
 
From the golfer:

1. I choose it based on lofts so that I can have full swings and no gaps at the top.

2. I choose based on the soft feel I am looking for, for my touch shots.

His question was this. If #1 is the reason, is feel even really as noticeable? And if it is #2, and it is all about touch shots, is #1 really needed?

If #1 and #2 are expressed by a golfer when choosing wedges why should they be mutually exclusive? Getting to fill gaps and have a soft feel doesn't seems so bad to me... Now from a personal point of view, all my wedges fill gaps with an emphasis for feel for the SW and LW.
 
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