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TaylorMade R11 Driver & Fairway Wood Review Thread

SuperStroke
Dr. Teeth said:
I cannot comment on that because I decreased my loft, however, the added forgiveness could be impart due to the fact that it closes the club face and therefore helps fight the dreaded slice.
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That makes sense, I get lost in the increase/decrease, closed/open! It seems like you could just sit and change individually settings for hours and never hit the same combo!!!
 
Thanks all for the replies. Now if my R11 would hurry up and arrive so I could put all this knowledge into practice...
 
IceyShanks said:
That makes sense, I get lost in the increase/decrease, closed/open! It seems like you could just sit and change individually settings for hours and never hit the same combo!!!
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You are totally right about that. I think the main thing to know is lowering your loft will open your club face, and increasing your loft will close the club face.
 
Dr. Teeth said:
So I just pulled out the instruction manual on the R11 and it does not give a specific amount that changing the FCT opens or closes the face. The ration of 2* open/closed for 1* lower/higher is what I remember them saying, however I cannot find anything on TMs website to back that up. So the answer is I believe it is as I said, but I cannot prove it. 10yarddraw may be correct as well, as he has proven himself to be extremely knowledgeable. Sorry to add confusion. I can say that it is no more than 1* and no less than .5* =)
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There is a good interactive tutorial on Taylor Mades website. Goto Products -> R11 -> Tune R11 Now
 
oh boy, I deal with numbers all day long, if I have to do it with my driver too, then its Superfast 2.0 for me lol
 
I am going to get some serious review going tomorrow guys. Going to play my first official round and will probably hit my 4W on multiple holes. Especially off the tee.
 
KellyBo hit my R11 7 - wood today and ripped it on a par five! I said girl you hit that club awesome and she smiled and almost put it in her bag.
 
I played a quick nine out in the marshlands of Ohio this morning. I only hit the r11 twice, as I was scared to lose golfballs if they went to far into the fairway.

shot 1: I decided to tee off with this on a par 4, and the wind snagged what would have been a straight and short tee shot. The wind took it and I never saw that ball again. I hit it purely, but I skied it just a tad, and sent the ball way higher into the air than it needed to be.

shot 2: Teed off with it on a par 5 once the wind became a bit more manageable. Wind was still about 10 mph in, and I hit this one pure and down the middle. It plugged about 205 yards from the tee box and in the right side of the fairway.

One thing I've noticed is that I still love the overall weight of this club. For some reason it makes me want to keep my tempo smooth, and deliver a solid swing. It has me pondering a heavier driver shaft as the additional weight compared to my SuperFast seems to be helping me a lot. It's going to be nothing but rain for the next 4-5 days - so I'll try and sneak out on Saturday between a 50th birthday party and a Literary Arts Banquet.
 
Well sadly guys I only hit the 4 Wood ONCE today and it was off the tee. I saw the perfect opportunity to set the ASP to open and play a nice low cut around a dogleg right onto the fairway. So I had the ASP to Open and set up for a nice fade.. instead all I can say is I hit a really high HARD draw that found the fairway going against the dogleg. I hit it over the trees I was trying to cut. So not much to say but as I read WM's post about I do love the weighting of this club as well, to me like the SF 2.0 it feels very bottom heavy, which I just feel is a great feeling when you are getting ready to swing.
 
Taylormade R11 Alignment Logo

Taylormade R11 Alignment Logo

I am having a tough time hitting my R11. No problems with the 09 Burner driver. The alignment logo is throwing me off? How many of you are lining it up on the toe of the driver? When the ball is tee'd up and you lift the club up, the center of the club is on the ball only when aligned with the toe of the club. Shots tend to go straighter. I cannot find anything from Taylormade or online regarding this?
 
If you sole your driver (i.e. rest it on the ground before takeaway) then you need to align the toe of the driver with the ball. If you "hover" your driver then you should align the alignment mark on the crown with the ball.
 
My R11 finally arrived last night - first range session might be tonight; first round tomorrow. All I've been able to do with it so far is just play around with the settings in the house. After unscrewing the shaft from the head for the first time, I noticed the TP logo on the shaft tip on the standard loft setting. This setting used to be something of a "standard loft/open clubface" set up, correct? Is that still the case on the R11 or does this logo just mark an upgraded shaft?
 
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colnago1331 said:
If you sole your driver (i.e. rest it on the ground before takeaway) then you need to align the toe of the driver with the ball. If you "hover" your driver then you should align the alignment mark on the crown with the ball.
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Just got back from the range. Iron shots are great with a slide draw. The R11 driver was pushing right when lined up with the tow of the club. I have the settings at DRAW, HIGHER, CLOSED ASP. When I line it up on the inside of the alignment mark (heel) of the club I was hitting consistent fades. (250-275 yards). Any thoughts on why the "heel" worked over the "toe" alignment?
 
Went to the range again and had really good tempo with my driver. I widened my stance a little bit and voila!, I wasn't so off balance and focused on not slicing the ball. I hit a bunch of really great shots straight down the range and once I got that down I started focusing on hitting the ball between two flags like a fairway. Most of my shots ended in the same area which were great, but my mishits were fades, not massive slices. I'm also working on opening up my hips more. I've been very stagnant with my hips and just opening them up a bit at impact really increased my distance. I popped a couple out past the 250 sign. That's amazing seeing how I was only touching 215 with my last driver. Once you get in tempo with this club and find your swing everything clicks.
 
Mardin said:
Went to the range again and had really good tempo with my driver. I widened my stance a little bit and voila!, I wasn't so off balance and focused on not slicing the ball. I hit a bunch of really great shots straight down the range and once I got that down I started focusing on hitting the ball between two flags like a fairway. Most of my shots ended in the same area which were great, but my mishits were fades, not massive slices. I'm also working on opening up my hips more. I've been very stagnant with my hips and just opening them up a bit at impact really increased my distance. I popped a couple out past the 250 sign. That's amazing seeing how I was only touching 215 with my last driver. Once you get in tempo with this club and find your swing everything clicks.
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thats awesome that its working out well for you thus far!
 
AVClubhouse said:
Just got back from the range. Iron shots are great with a slide draw. The R11 driver was pushing right when lined up with the tow of the club. I have the settings at DRAW, HIGHER, CLOSED ASP. When I line it up on the inside of the alignment mark (heel) of the club I was hitting consistent fades. (250-275 yards). Any thoughts on why the "heel" worked over the "toe" alignment?
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No idea because traditionally if you start with your clu b on the ground you should align it with the ball at the toe. This allows the golfer to hit the ball consistently in the middle of the club face.
 
Dr. Teeth said:
No idea because traditionally if you start with your clu b on the ground you should align it with the ball at the toe. This allows the golfer to hit the ball consistently in the middle of the club face.
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man I learn something every day, I set it on the ground and line it up in the middle, maybe THATS why I never hit the sweet spot
 
I purchased this driver and gained over 20 yards on my drive. Love it! I am still waiting for my custom shaft as well!
 
A question for all of you who seem to be playing the R11 with the TP offered shaft upgrades:

I know in the past versions of TaylorMade adjustable drivers, the TP clubs' shafts had a setting that was labeled "TP" on the shaft tip. The setting, as I understood it, was between neutral and open and was essentially an open face-standard loft setting. I noticed this marking on the neutral setting on my newly delivered Aldila RIP Beta TP shaft. Does anyone know if this is the same as previous TP offerings or if the standard setting in the R11 is just that - neutral face-standard loft?

Thanks for the input on this club everyone - I can't wait to get my new big stick out on the course tomorrow.
 
bbuonic81 said:
A question for all of you who seem to be playing the R11 with the TP offered shaft upgrades:

I know in the past versions of TaylorMade adjustable drivers, the TP clubs' shafts had a setting that was labeled "TP" on the shaft tip. The setting, as I understood it, was between neutral and open and was essentially an open face-standard loft setting. I noticed this marking on the neutral setting on my newly delivered Aldila RIP Beta TP shaft. Does anyone know if this is the same as previous TP offerings or if the standard setting in the R11 is just that - neutral face-standard loft?

Thanks for the input on this club everyone - I can't wait to get my new big stick out on the course tomorrow.
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no it wasnt a standard loft setting, it was 1* open and -.5 loft with the old sleeve, on the new R11 sleeve its not the same, its above neutral which is just that, neutral is standard loft and lie/face angle. People just called it the TP position because thats where the TP emblem was. That same setting on the R11 sleeve is one click right of neutral
 
10YardDraw said:
no it wasnt a standard loft setting, it was 1* open and -.5 loft with the old sleeve, on the new R11 sleeve its not the same, its above neutral which is just that, neutral is standard loft and lie/face angle. People just called it the TP position because thats where the TP emblem was. That same setting on the R11 sleeve is one click right of neutral
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thats direct from the resident R11 guru!
 
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