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One Length Irons Thread: Join the Revolution

SuperStroke
Newman21 said:
Hi JB! No I havent read through all the comments. Sorry. Just describing my trials and ones (not in this thread) that have had the exact same results. I am not putting down the OL. For some they will work. For most though in my research and trials, they have not.
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I wonder how you come up with MOST??? Some might be more accurate. They aren't really aimed at Low Cap golfers for the most part so the segment they will help is narrower to begin with.
I also think People don't give things time to work. Everyone wants quick fixes and seem to move on instead of working to get better. OL just simplifies 1 part of the whole process. I should count the number of posts that start Got OL then 3 rounds later SOLD OL !!!

I am going to the new PGA superstore today to see if I can hit the new OL irons.
The only spot I might consider changing the OL out for Reg length shafts is on the 2 wedges.

JMHO
 
PatsFan said:
I wonder how you come up with MOST??? Some might be more accurate. They aren't really aimed at Low Cap golfers for the most part so the segment they will help is narrower to begin with.
I also think People don't give things time to work. Everyone wants quick fixes and seem to move on instead of working to get better. OL just simplifies 1 part of the whole process.

I am going to the new PGA superstore today to see if I can hit the new OL irons.
The only spot I might consider changing the OL out for Reg length shafts is on the 2 wedges.

JMHO
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Best of luck to you.
 
Newman21 said:
Best of luck to you.
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TY Sir!
I already have FTB OL irons. I love them but I need more help and the new OL might just be it.
Like I said I will be considering standard lob and sand wedges.

I will try to hit standard irons for a comparison.
 
Considering ordering a couple Radspeed long iron one length. To do some experimenting with. Ease into the revolution. Blend them into my forge tecs.
 
Has anyone tried standardizing other parts of the bag to minimize even more variables? I already have my 4H, 5-GW, and 56* at 37.25". Thinking about playing my 3W and 5W both at 40" or 41", then driver at 45". That way I'm really only dealing with 3 different lengths in the entire bag. Any experience or comments why I should or shouldn't?
 
Tywithay said:
Has anyone tried standardizing other parts of the bag to minimize even more variables? I already have my 4H, 5-GW, and 56* at 37.25". Thinking about playing my 3W and 5W both at 40" or 41", then driver at 45". That way I'm really only dealing with 3 different lengths in the entire bag. Any experience or comments why I should or shouldn't?
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I think that’s a great idea, and have considered doing similar in my bag. I don’t think I’ll ever go OL on my LW, since I’m usually choked way down on it to begin with around the green.
 
Tywithay said:
Has anyone tried standardizing other parts of the bag to minimize even more variables? I already have my 4H, 5-GW, and 56* at 37.25". Thinking about playing my 3W and 5W both at 40" or 41", then driver at 45". That way I'm really only dealing with 3 different lengths in the entire bag. Any experience or comments why I should or shouldn't?
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@phoffer has done some interesting things with length on driver/fairway woods. I have mentioned it before, but I have tour length driver/standard length 3W, then a standard 4i for the tee and then 4-PW OL. My 3 MiM wedges are all the same length and just slightly shorter than OL.

when I get another set, I will have all of my OL irons a little shorter than now and likely try OL wedges. I think 37” or 36.75” will be perfect for me to try an entire set including wedges. For reference, my current OL irons are 37.5” and wedges are 35.5”.
 
Hi guys, new member and first time poster here. I'm a pretty new golfer (just started last summer), 48 y.o. in decent shape and taking lessons. Currently, I am playing:

  • Callaway Mavrik Max 10.5* driver and 3 wood
  • Callaway Super Hybrids in 17* and 20* w/ Ventus Blue HB 7R shafts
  • Callaway Mavrik Max 5-AW w/ Steelfiber i95 shafts
  • Callaway PM Grind 54 & 58* wedges

I am pretty pleased with my progress from 7 iron down. I'm lucky enough to have access to a Trackman for daily practice, and my club path and face to path are both usually under 2*. I use a single plane swing due to a nasty injury history which I won't bore you with. My 7 iron carries right at 160 and I'm still speeding up. However, I'm more inconsistent with my long irons and hybrids. I just can't seem to groove them as well, and my typical miss is off the toe - and gets worse as the club gets longer. When I do strike the 20* Super Hybrid well, it is carrying 200 and rolling 220, but my dispersion is poor. The 17* has been more elusive.

Anyway, I decided to try single length irons in the name of simplicity and repeatability, and have ordered 5-AW in Cobra Forged Tec's with my same Steelfiber shafts (which I really like) and length/lie (1/2" long, 2* upright). My question now is what to do with the Super Hybrids? They are currently playing about D4 in 40.5" standard length with GP MCC Plus 4 Midsize grips. I see that I can get a used Ventus HB shaft on eBay pretty cheap, and am thinking that if I cut it to 38" (reduce SW 7.5 points), use the same grips, and substitute an aftermarket 18 gram head weight (add 6 points back)...that OUGHT to get me back to around D3.

I'm thinking of doing this as an experiment without butchering my existing shafts. What am I missing? Effect on lie angles? Any other thoughts on how to adapt them to my new OL bag?
 
RollingStone73 said:
Hi guys, new member and first time poster here. I'm a pretty new golfer (just started last summer), 48 y.o. in decent shape and taking lessons. Currently, I am playing:

  • Callaway Mavrik Max 10.5* driver and 3 wood
  • Callaway Super Hybrids in 17* and 20* w/ Ventus Blue HB 7R shafts
  • Callaway Mavrik Max 5-AW w/ Steelfiber i95 shafts
  • Callaway PM Grind 54 & 58* wedges

I am pretty pleased with my progress from 7 iron down. I'm lucky enough to have access to a Trackman for daily practice, and my club path and face to path are both usually under 2*. I use a single plane swing due to a nasty injury history which I won't bore you with. My 7 iron carries right at 160 and I'm still speeding up. However, I'm more inconsistent with my long irons and hybrids. I just can't seem to groove them as well, and my typical miss is off the toe - and gets worse as the club gets longer. When I do strike the 20* Super Hybrid well, it is carrying 200 and rolling 220, but my dispersion is poor. The 17* has been more elusive.

Anyway, I decided to try single length irons in the name of simplicity and repeatability, and have ordered 5-AW in Cobra Forged Tec's with my same Steelfiber shafts (which I really like) and length/lie (1/2" long, 2* upright). My question now is what to do with the Super Hybrids? They are currently playing about D4 in 40.5" standard length with GP MCC Plus 4 Midsize grips. I see that I can get a used Ventus HB shaft on eBay pretty cheap, and am thinking that if I cut it to 38" (reduce SW 7.5 points), use the same grips, and substitute an aftermarket 18 gram head weight (add 6 points back)...that OUGHT to get me back to around D3.

I'm thinking of doing this as an experiment without butchering my existing shafts. What am I missing? Effect on lie angles? Any other thoughts on how to adapt them to my new OL bag?
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Im not sure you will be able to do it with your hybrids. You would need to add a ton of weight to the head to make it work.
The current OL sets are not as much chopped down and fixed lie angles, but also overall weight and where it is placed.
 
@RollingStone73 I think your math is just a little off on SW for the super hybrid. It's about 3 SW pts per 1/2", so if you take off 2.5" you'd need to add 15 SW pts/30 grams back to the head to get it to the same SW.
 
willplaysgolf said:
@RollingStone73 I think your math is just a little off on SW for the super hybrid. It's about 3 SW pts per 1/2", so if you take off 2.5" you'd need to add 15 SW pts/30 grams back to the head to get it to the same SW.
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Ah, looks like you are right. Cutting the shafts to 38" would probably equal about C0, and the heaviest sole weight I can find adds 12 grams over the standard one. I guess I can just play around with lead tape to see if the clubs will be playable at that length and then take them to someone knowledgeable with hot melt to do the final steps.
 
RollingStone73 said:
Ah, looks like you are right. Cutting the shafts to 38" would probably equal about C0, and the heaviest sole weight I can find adds 12 grams over the standard one. I guess I can just play around with lead tape to see if the clubs will be playable at that length and then take them to someone knowledgeable with hot melt to do the final steps.
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As someone that has been testing this, you are going to lose quite a bit of distance.
The head weights of some of the OL hybrids that exist are definitely different and weight placement is crucial.
 
I'm all for experiments but that might be tough to do. If you're only getting 12 more grams from the weight, you'll need another 18 grams from hotmelt. Napkin math says you'll need about 20x the size of the screw-in weight in hotmelt to get there.

Even if you got there the lie angle might be a bigger concern. Your 2° upright 5 iron would be at 66° and your hybrid would be around 58° which could be a big adjustment club to club.
 
JB said:
As someone that has been testing this, you are going to lose quite a bit of distance.
The head weights of some of the OL hybrids that exist are definitely different and weight placement is crucial.
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What is different between a standard RADSPEED hybrid and the OL version? What does Cobra want to do with the swing weight of the clubs?
 
DataDude said:
What is different between a standard RADSPEED hybrid and the OL version? What does Cobra want to do with the swing weight of the clubs?
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There is a great video we shot with Mike Yagley years ago talking about the inside of irons and how they are made. It shows the difference between OL and Variable. I think it explains it very well overall, with club design.

 
Jelopster said:
First time reader, first time poster here. I’ve been playing golf a few times a year for the last 25 years or so (I’m 37) and am bad. I’m athletic and can swing it pretty good, but never put the time into getting better. I decided 2021 is the year! (Basically I realized that participating in things like old man league baseball or pick up basketball were just injuries waiting to happen so...golf.)

I thought it time to replace my 20 year old Molitors and original “Wild Thing” Wilson driver and, after some research, decided to join the revolution with single length clubs. The way I figured, my swing is garbage so I may as well start from scratch. SL, the theory goes, should allow me to work on a single swing which I can then repeat and gain some consistency.

Not being able to justify spending Cobra $, I went with a set of Diamond Tour Golf In1Zone irons, hybrid, and Wood. I did keep a standard length driver. Due to COVID, DTG was out of the matching wedges, so Jason Hiland and the boys dipped into the parts bin over at SMT (an affiliate) and built me a set of wedges to match.

So far, I’ve hit the range twice and gotten in two rounds of 9. I shot a 49 and 55, which are among the best score I’ve ever had. I’m not yet worried about gaps between clubs etc., just focusing on making good contact and not duffing every other shot. I can definitively say, I’ve never hit irons like this before. I’m consistently making solid contact and getting the ball up in the air. In my first range session alone, I was able to find the right ball position to hit em straight. I’m hoping to play 30-40 rounds this year and am excited to see how I progress.

Vive la révolution!
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Welcome to THP and best of luck to you in your golf journey!

bbutler said:
Considering ordering a couple Radspeed long iron one length. To do some experimenting with. Ease into the revolution. Blend them into my forge tecs.
Click to expand...

I just bought an F8 9i off eBay to play around with before I get to the fitter to try the RadSpeed OL.
 
RollingStone73 said:
Hi guys, new member and first time poster here. I'm a pretty new golfer (just started last summer), 48 y.o. in decent shape and taking lessons. Currently, I am playing:

  • Callaway Mavrik Max 10.5* driver and 3 wood
  • Callaway Super Hybrids in 17* and 20* w/ Ventus Blue HB 7R shafts
  • Callaway Mavrik Max 5-AW w/ Steelfiber i95 shafts
  • Callaway PM Grind 54 & 58* wedges

I am pretty pleased with my progress from 7 iron down. I'm lucky enough to have access to a Trackman for daily practice, and my club path and face to path are both usually under 2*. I use a single plane swing due to a nasty injury history which I won't bore you with. My 7 iron carries right at 160 and I'm still speeding up. However, I'm more inconsistent with my long irons and hybrids. I just can't seem to groove them as well, and my typical miss is off the toe - and gets worse as the club gets longer. When I do strike the 20* Super Hybrid well, it is carrying 200 and rolling 220, but my dispersion is poor. The 17* has been more elusive.

Anyway, I decided to try single length irons in the name of simplicity and repeatability, and have ordered 5-AW in Cobra Forged Tec's with my same Steelfiber shafts (which I really like) and length/lie (1/2" long, 2* upright). My question now is what to do with the Super Hybrids? They are currently playing about D4 in 40.5" standard length with GP MCC Plus 4 Midsize grips. I see that I can get a used Ventus HB shaft on eBay pretty cheap, and am thinking that if I cut it to 38" (reduce SW 7.5 points), use the same grips, and substitute an aftermarket 18 gram head weight (add 6 points back)...that OUGHT to get me back to around D3.

I'm thinking of doing this as an experiment without butchering my existing shafts. What am I missing? Effect on lie angles? Any other thoughts on how to adapt them to my new OL bag?
Click to expand...
Welcome to THP! You're getting some good feedback. Best of luck!
 
I spent 3 hours reading all 31 pages, but I have a couple questions for you JB or any of you that have really been using OL. I'm wondering if you guys actually see greater advantages for a high handicapper. I'm finally getting to the place where I at least understand the mechanics and feel of my irons, but now I'm in that VL stage where it's like I just pray I get to hit my 8i cause that's the one I'm most comfortable with, and absolutely hate my 5i and 6i. But I'm actually thinking OL irons would just be even that much better for a new guy?

I also compiled some data just to compare the F9, SZ and RAD because it sounds like if you want to join the revolution the tech took a big uptick with the F9.
1612617647025.png
Ok I'm rambling here's my questions...
1. Do you think OL's have even more gains for a newer golfer to form consistency?
2. JB - you seem to really be strong on the latest and greatest and going for RAD, but I see almost NO difference between the SZ and RAD except the swing weights in the wedges? What am I missing? The SZ's at this point are half the cost?
3. JB - With your distances, you don't seem to struggle with swing speed, so I'm curious to why you use graphite shafts vs. steel?
 
V14_Heels said:
I spent 3 hours reading all 31 pages, but I have a couple questions for you JB or any of you that have really been using OL. I'm wondering if you guys actually see greater advantages for a high handicapper. I'm finally getting to the place where I at least understand the mechanics and feel of my irons, but now I'm in that VL stage where it's like I just pray I get to hit my 8i cause that's the one I'm most comfortable with, and absolutely hate my 5i and 6i. But I'm actually thinking OL irons would just be even that much better for a new guy?

I also compiled some data just to compare the F9, SZ and RAD because it sounds like if you want to join the revolution the tech took a big uptick with the F9.
View attachment 8992067
Ok I'm rambling here's my questions...
1. Do you think OL's have even more gains for a newer golfer to form consistency?
2. JB - you seem to really be strong on the latest and greatest and going for RAD, but I see almost NO difference between the SZ and RAD except the swing weights in the wedges? What am I missing? The SZ's at this point are half the cost?
3. JB - With your distances, you don't seem to struggle with swing speed, so I'm curious to why you use graphite shafts vs. steel?
Click to expand...

1. I don't. I think it certainly helps there, but I think consistency can help every golfer assuming something is a fit for them. Comfort plays a large role here and despite single length being around nearly as long as variable, some people struggle with the concept because it is not as common.

2. The RADSPEED irons and Speedzone irons are quite different. Lofts and lie are simply one part of the equation. Where weight is placed and what that weight is another part. Speedzone irons got closer to me being able to cover my gaps with no overlapping at all. The Radspeeds did that with no issues.

3. I use graphite because I like to play a lighter weight shaft (95g) without a loss of strength and stability. At that weight in most steel I have tested, there is a bit too much give and take to me because by design they have to be thinner. Composite shafts strength and weight are independent of each other, generally speaking. Combine that with less impact on my joints and I enjoy graphite shafts. With that said, I choose my graphite as carefully as I would any other equipment for my golf bag and in this instance play the UST Mamiya Recoil Proto 95s.
 
Sounds like your a pretty big supporter of the RAD speeds being worth the extra buck, cause the tech has advanced that much. That's really good feedback.

Yea, I'm just no where close to even being able to remotely feel those type of differences in shafts yet. But I would love good stability, and my elbows hurt like a mother after a round, so that is definitely appealing on the "joint point" you make. I'm only 36 too, so...

I might have to investigate more into the graphite shafts. I've never even considered that truthfully.
 
Wait. You said "lighter weight shaft (95g) but isn't that considered a quite heavy graphite shaft? Most of the stock shafts I've seen in graphite are usually in the 65-75g range?
 
V14_Heels said:
Wait. You said "lighter weight shaft (95g) but isn't that considered a quite heavy graphite shaft? Most of the stock shafts I've seen in graphite are usually in the 65-75g range?
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In some ways yes. In other ways no. Graphite is available in some pretty heavy weights too. At stock, sure it’s lighter, but aftermarket I would say it’s middle of the road. With that said I have been testing Recoil Dart in 85 and like them quite a bit.

I have a feeling both Shaft up with UST Mamiya and the Morgan Cup with Cobra Golf will be hot tickets this year for THPers for both the equipment and education.
 
JB said:
In some ways yes. In other ways no. Graphite is available in some pretty heavy weights too. At stock, sure it’s lighter, but aftermarket I would say it’s middle of the road. With that said I have been testing Recoil Dart in 85 and like them quite a bit.

I have a feeling both Shaft up with UST Mamiya and the Morgan Cup with Cobra Golf will be hot tickets this year for THPers for both the equipment and education.
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I for one could use some shaft education. Undecided between the 780s in F4 and 95s in Radspeed.
 
This 85g graphite sounds amazing, but of course JB has me in a custom set now at 1100 bucks. Thanks...JB. o_O
 
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