How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

So i had a reshafting problem this weekend. Got my taper tip recoils from UST last wed and threw them in my j40 just in time for indy. Well the tips came with no paint on them and i took this as being prepped for install so i didnt bother scuffing up the surface. Well on the 18th hole i hit my pw and off comes the head, zero epoxy stuck to the shaft and im guessing it was because of my lack of prepping the tip. I also have an 8i the i can now spin the shaft in the clubhead. So im going to remove all the shafts and reinstall. I did use the bramptons quick cure epoxy but have used that on a good amount of other clubs without an issue. You guys think its a reasonable assumption that my lack of tip prep caused the issue this time around?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
My wife's heat gun for crafts (ZAP) only gets to 650* and my experience in pulling has been hit or miss.

What's the recommendation? Bernzomatic propane torch can be had for $30 and gets to like 3500* or the Wagner heat gun can be 750* or 1000*.

Sounds like Wagner should do the trick and is likely less potentially damaging than the propane torch.

I picked up the Wagner in Amazon for about $20
 
I picked up the Wagner in Amazon for about $20

I'm gonna pickup a torch after work. Considering the wife always has a heat gun I'm thinking the torch could be useful for other things as well like Hawk said.

I should probably test on an old club first though. :)
 
Just keep the club moving and use short bursts until you get a feel for it.
 
Just keep the heat MOVING when using a torch or you can get a little browning on hosels or even bubbling on paint on woods/hybo's if you don't. It's why I switched to a heat gun, I'm a low and slow kinda guy :alien:
 
The Hireko guy on youtube is a torch master. I do like my heat gun b/c it will sit on its own.
 
You're both making me second guess this already. The craft gun just left a bad taste in my mouth for heat guns after heating for 20 minutes and still unable to get a head off.
 
Like I said buddy. You can't go wrong. I use my heat gun pretty much exclusively and I have both if that helps. I was just trying to give you all sides.
 
You're both making me second guess this already. The craft gun just left a bad taste in my mouth for heat guns after heating for 20 minutes and still unable to get a head off.

Same here now I gots me a torch
 
You're both making me second guess this already. The craft gun just left a bad taste in my mouth for heat guns after heating for 20 minutes and still unable to get a head off.

Harbor Freight butane micro torch. $7, use it on every pull with no issues at all, have a Benzomatic and it just collects dust.
 
How To: The Poor Man's Guide to Reshafting Irons

Just keep the heat moving and you're fine.

Like hawk, I like the heat gun because I can sit it up next to my puller or use my vice to set it up and just let it sit and heat if I get a pull that is that tough. But I've test to find one that my heat gun couldn't handle yet.

Both work, but I'm a heat gun guy 100% now that I made that switch.
 
Went the torch route and it was super easy.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Looking at doing some shaft work on a driver and 4w. Going to have to catch up on this thread. Got a heat gun, a vice, a shaft clamp, what other things will I need to buy? Any type of epoxy you guys recommend?
 
I use the 5/10 variety. Quick set. Some people don't like it as much, but I've had luck with it.
 
Thanks for the bump as I will be needing this thread here in a couple days
 
Looking at doing some shaft work on a driver and 4w. Going to have to catch up on this thread. Got a heat gun, a vice, a shaft clamp, what other things will I need to buy? Any type of epoxy you guys recommend?

Have the shafts already been pulled or do you have a shaft extractor?
 
Have the shafts already been pulled or do you have a shaft extractor?
the 4w will be sans shaft, but the driver still has the shaft in it. do I really need a shaft extractor?
 
Yes you do.
 
If I'm pulling steel do I have to have a puller?

I know it's a must for graphite pulls
 
No need for steel. The problem with graphite is 1) you'll ruin the pulled shaft and 2) you might leave graphite in the hosel and it's a huge PIA to get out.
 
No need for steel. The problem with graphite is 1) you'll ruin the pulled shaft and 2) you might leave graphite in the hosel and it's a huge PIA to get out.
Time to look for a puller. any recommendations or should I just take the driver to a shop?
 
Unless you are planning on using it a lot, take it in. It'll take them 5 minutes.
 
Hawk said everything important. Extractor is really the only way for graphite.
 
Hawk said everything important. Extractor is really the only way for graphite.

Been there done that. Both times I didn't care about the pull, so figured whatever happened happened. Didn't expect the graphite I left in the hosel to turn to the hardest material known to man.
 
Been there done that. Both times I didn't care about the pull, so figured whatever happened happened. Didn't expect the graphite I left in the hosel to turn to the hardest material known to man.

that's really a pain in the arse.
 
Back
Top