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Questions - Swingweight and Cutting Down a Driver Shaft

Nippon Shafts
bellairemi said:
Hawk,

Yep, you would be looking at more than a flex softer if you replace all the weight. Unless you are trying to feel the face close in a different way, the best place for the weight is back, center and low (which mirrors the COG in most of today's drivers anyway). Splitting the difference and not getting all the way back could leave you with a 1/2 flex soft, which should increase spin. The grip really just fools the SW scale although you can add lead tape on the shaft right below the grip (or see Sleuth's thread on counterweighting for the bolt/washer combo) to increase your total weight - which you may be more sensitive to than SW.
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Thanks. I do appreciate it!
 
Hawk said:
That's a good point. Would probably be happy to get it back to D0 anyway.


I assume placement is important?
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Maybe, sort-of, kind-of...

bellairemi is correct on the placement; however, if you're looking to change a particular ball-flight you might add more to the heel or toe. Really just depends but low and as far back is the preferred placement.

bellairemi said:
Hawk,

Yep, you would be looking at more than a flex softer if you replace all the weight. Unless you are trying to feel the face close in a different way, the best place for the weight is back, center and low (which mirrors the COG in most of today's drivers anyway). Splitting the difference and not getting all the way back could leave you with a 1/2 flex soft, which should increase spin. The grip really just fools the SW scale although you can add lead tape on the shaft right below the grip (or see Sleuth's thread on counterweighting for the bolt/washer combo) to increase your total weight - which you may be more sensitive to than SW.
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Good 411 here...
 
Definitlely recommend putting in a heavier shaft designed for a fairway metal. Maybe an 85g or so.
 
Don't worry so much about swingweight with the driver. I think it is important in irons across a full set, but not so much with driver. Everyone worries about swingweight and changing it way too much. A huge percentage of people would not know the difference.
 
Tbonafide said:
Could you just go with a shorter and heavier shaft (like a 3w) and then tinkering rather than cutting the existing one?
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No, this is going the opposite way. You'd be offsetting head weight even further. You could potentially go lighter with a shaft to help retain swing weight...
 
Here are the simple rules. When I have a touch more time ,I'll add more


1/2" = 3 swing weight points

2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point

5 gr grip = 1 swing weight point

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point
 
BigLeftyinAZ said:
Here are the simple rules. When I have a touch more time ,I'll add more


1/2" = 3 swing weight points

2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point

5 gr grip = 1 swing weight point

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point
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Good post BL-AZ!!

To clarify further:

1/2" shorter shaft = -3 swingweight points, 1/2" longer shaft = +3 swingweight points

9 gram shaft weight decrease = +1 point, 9 gram shaft weight increase = -1 point swingweight

4* flatter lie = +1 swingweight, 4* upright lie = -1 point swingweight
 
Hawk said:
I think I'm about to take a driver from 46 to 44, so that would be 12 SW points. Anybody know how much lead tape I'm looking at needing?
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after cutting 2 inches off.. bringing it to any good store.. they have swing weight measure scale for clubs. they can tell you what the new swing weight is. then you start adding lead tape to get back to the swing weight you want :)
 
A lot of good info here guys. SW is one of those things that can take some time to wrap your head around, but once it clicks and you "get it", it just becomes simple math.
 
that's alot to take off, will take a ton of tape to get it back to the original swing weight.
 
BigLeftyinAZ said:
Here are the simple rules. When I have a touch more time ,I'll add more


1/2" = 3 swing weight points

2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point

5 gr grip = 1 swing weight point

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point
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Issue you will run into if you cut 2 " off and add the 12 grams of weight

If you wind up adding 10 grams to the head, that will boost the total head weight into the range of a 3-wood. You should plan on tip trimming your shaft to match that of a 3-wood as well.
Typically a 3 wood head will be 8 to 10 grams heavier then a driver (usually 200 grams) and typically a shaft manufacturer will advise you to trim an additional one inch off the shaft for use in a 3 wood.
I say start by getting the head to about 210 grams, tip trim the shaft to 3 wood specs, put it together, trim the overall club length to the 44in you want, throw on a grip you like, and have a go at it. You will be close enough to determine if the beast works for you.

Hope this helps.



A simple rule for tip trimming and trying to keep the flex close to true ,one would need to tip the shaft 1/8" for every 2.5g I added in headweight
 
Information is much appreciated folks.

Ended up lopping an inch off the R1, which was already at D4. That kept me in a more manageable range as opposed to what I was thinking with the Super S. Bought some lead but haven't added any yet.
 
Hawk said:
Information is much appreciated folks.

Ended up lopping an inch off the R1, which was already at D4. That kept me in a more manageable range as opposed to what I was thinking with the Super S. Bought some lead but haven't added any yet.
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Just use a heavier weight in one of your weight ports. That's the advantage of the TM technology.
 
LOL I'll pass!
 
come on.. Imagine how professional you will look/sound once you have one of those. Not to mention you could provide the swinging weight change service to your friends and other golfers :)
 
so by having my 46 inch stiff cut to 44 would that make it a x-stiff now?
 
golfer joe said:
so by having my 46 inch stiff cut to 44 would that make it a x-stiff now?
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Not if you cut from the butt end, which is where you want to cut.
 
So...about swing weight and shafts, do OEM's adjust the SW when you order a club at a custom length, or do they just cut the shaft and leave it as is?
 
Castor Hades said:
So...about swing weight and shafts, do OEM's adjust the SW when you order a club at a custom length, or do they just cut the shaft and leave it as is?
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good question as I ordered my driver from Callaway at 44",when I leave golf fest today I'll swing by GG and ask them to sw it for me,although I'm sure they just cut it and did not re weight it
 
Postman said:
good question as I ordered my driver from Callaway at 44",when I leave golf fest today I'll swing by GG and ask them to sw it for me,although I'm sure they just cut it and did not re weight it
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Let us know how it goes!

My future AMP Cell Pro is a D5 at stock length & shaft...I ordered it to be cut down 0.5", so it could drop to D2, which I suppose is ok, as I like to have my irons at D2 / D3, and the Amp Cell Pro's are at D3. I've never thought about my driver SW, but we will see :D
 
Castor Hades said:
So...about swing weight and shafts, do OEM's adjust the SW when you order a club at a custom length, or do they just cut the shaft and leave it as is?
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Most do not unless specifically asked to do so. Ping is about the best. We just had TaylorMade send two R1s, built wrong both times, after we specified weighting to D4 both times. We ended up comping a weight kit and fixing it ourselves so our customer wouldn't have to wait again.
 
Castor Hades said:
Let us know how it goes!

My future AMP Cell Pro is a D5 at stock length & shaft...I ordered it to be cut down 0.5", so it could drop to D2, which I suppose is ok, as I like to have my irons at D2 / D3, and the Amp Cell Pro's are at D3. I've never thought about my driver SW, but we will see :D
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swing weight was c6 so I bought the tungsten tape and added 6(comes with 10 squares)squares and it raised it to d4
 
Posted this one on a different thread but this one seems to be more related to my question:

I purchased a new 913 D2 last week, stock 45 inch adila stiff shaft. Now, the head has a default 9g weight, I purchasds the 14g weight today, how much could I cut the shaft?
 
Porky said:
Posted this one on a different thread but this one seems to be more related to my question:

I purchased a new 913 D2 last week, stock 45 inch adila stiff shaft. Now, the head has a default 9g weight, I purchasds the 14g weight today, how much could I cut the shaft?
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3/4 of an inch
 
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