Woodworking / Furniture Building
What kind of bench do you have? Any changes you'd make in terms of build? (Other than the Hovarter vise)?
KingsKraken
Well-known member
I built the split-top Nicholson style bench from the Hand Tool School Orientation Semester. The design is meant to be forgiving for new woodworkers to make, and built from construction lumber to keep cost down. I used 4x6s instead of 4x4s for the leg assemblies, and made mine 8 feet long instead of 6, but otherwise followed Shannon’s plan. I’m pretty happy with it. It’s a classic viseless bench design. I wouldn’t change much about it. I probably won’t even add a leg vise at this point.
This is a great video showing how a viseless bench can be used.
maxw72
Well-known member
What is everyone's biggest woodworking frustration? I have a few but my top ones would be working with lumber that isn't straight as I don't have the tools to minimize the flaws and that feeds into my other two frustrations of feeling as though I can never cut perfect 45 miter cuts and I feel like I do a poor job at seeing if corners are perfect 90's. I think the majority of the time it is my own fault but I watch woodworking videos and see people "frustrated" with their corners and when I look at them I think "I would love for that to be my "bad" 90. Anyways, here is a recent project that I had some pretty good 45 degree cuts.
KingsKraken
Well-known member
My biggest frustration is that I don’t have the space or budget to have all the tools and lumber I want.
Are you using a square against a reference face and edge (a face and an edge you know to be flat) to confirm you have an end cut square? If not, that’s how to do it. You shouldn’t see any light between the board and the square. Here’s an example:
If your cut is not square or 45, then a shooting board and a hand plane are what you’re looking for to refine the cut.
For wider miters you could use a shooting board like this one.
Case Side Miter Shooting Board v2.
High-end woodworking case side miter shooting board appliance, also known as donkey ear shooting board, enables high repeatability and precision of mitered case ends, and helps ensure clean and well-aligned joints like secret mitered dovetails. What’s included The Case Side Miter Shooting Board...
yellowax.com
maxw72
Well-known member
I'm usually just throwing a speed square inside my corner.My biggest frustration is that I don’t have the space or budget to have all the tools and lumber I want.
Are you using a square against a reference face and edge (a face and an edge you know to be flat) to confirm you have an end cut square? If not, that’s how to do it. You shouldn’t see any light between the board and the square. Here’s an example:
View attachment 8984698
View attachment 8984700
If your cut is not square or 45, then a shooting board and a hand plane are what you’re looking for to refine the cut.
For wider miters you could use a shooting board like this one.
Case Side Miter Shooting Board v2.
High-end woodworking case side miter shooting board appliance, also known as donkey ear shooting board, enables high repeatability and precision of mitered case ends, and helps ensure clean and well-aligned joints like secret mitered dovetails. What’s included The Case Side Miter Shooting Board...yellowax.com
My biggest frustration is not having a dedicated shop space. What I have is a small part of the basement & it's hard to get stuff down there & back up. I'd never be able to make a large project unless I final assemble it upstairs.
And I wish I was better at finishing & staining wood. I'm not bad - just unsure of myself. I need a lot more practice - at everything.
And I wish I was better at finishing & staining wood. I'm not bad - just unsure of myself. I need a lot more practice - at everything.
Are you cutting the miter with a power saw? If you're using a miter box (either a jig on the table saw or a handsaw jig), you can use scrap wood to sneak up on the perfect 45 degree angle, then cut the good pieces.
KingsKraken
Well-known member
Get yourself a 12” combination square. Speed squares are great for construction, but combination squares are more useful for fine woodworking. You can use them to check for both square and 45.
maxw72
Well-known member
Yeah I'm cutting with a miter saw. It is a cheap saw but I'm looking at picking up something new eventually, as I stated in a post awhile ago. Unfortunately I think my miter saw has too much play in it, due to the Harbor Freight quality.
This thread inspires me. I have built some shelves recently to help with the homeschool materials but nothing fun. I really need to get a standalone garage to have the space. I have plans to create a live edge wood table with a chess board set into it. One of these days..
Every speed square I’ve ever owned could verify 45° (Assuming one took the time to find one that was accurate), but I agree that a combination square is more useful for woodworking. Plus the combo square is useful for setting cutter heights for us power tool wood butchers.
Pro tip: the plastic drafting triangles that can be bought at any craft supply store are inexpensive and quite accurate.
Scored some walnut
What are you going to build with it??
Not sure yet, definitely nothing for @golfinnut
You still owe me my fishing planers that I even gave you directions for.
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Lucky dog. I'd love a Walnut stash like that.
KingsKraken
Well-known member
Every speed square I’ve ever owned could verify 45° (Assuming one took the time to find one that was accurate), but I agree that a combination square is more useful for woodworking. Plus the combo square is useful for setting cutter heights for us power tool wood butchers.
Pro tip: the plastic drafting triangles that can be bought at any craft supply store are inexpensive and quite accurate.
You’re right of course, but I was more referring to measuring miters on the end of a board where you use the rule against a reference face. You can’t do that so easily with a speed square, at least not without a known flat surface as well.
Would love a nice walnut cutting board.... and while you're at it a matching cheese board.... You have my mailing address
KingsKraken
Well-known member
Any of them. I have blades made from all three. There’s really minimal difference. A2 is slightly harder to sharpen than O1 or PM-V11, but not so much that you should avoid It.
That said, I like PM-V11 the most out of the three. It keeps its promise to sharpen easily and hold an edge well.
maxw72
Well-known member
I'm wondering if anyone knows what program is being used to make plans like this? I'm always pretty amazed by how the plans I see using this program turn out.
Also, Finally picked up this beast last night...And yes, I have already changed out the blade to a Diablo.. Plan on picking up the Rigid stand this afternoon when I go get some wood for a project.
Also, Finally picked up this beast last night...And yes, I have already changed out the blade to a Diablo.. Plan on picking up the Rigid stand this afternoon when I go get some wood for a project.
KingsKraken
Well-known member
That’s Sketchup. Check this site out for free tutorial videos.
SketchUp For Woodworkers
The internet's leading online resource for learning Sketchup that is built and run by woodworkers for woodworkers.
sketchupforwoodworkers.com
Congrats on the miter saw! I have a Diablo blade on mine too. I recently bought some really nice Wen stands for my drill press, planer, and band saw.
Sketchup was popular with a lot of WWers doing CAD. It used to be free before google spun it off, not sure about it now.