Lots of misinformation out there in regards to golf balls and compression. We wanted to share the testing and the data and show what happens with a high compression golf ball and low compression golf ball when they are both used by the same golfer.
Dan talks about why this test and comparison is happening and then takes some swings and breaks down the data to explain what is happening and how it relates to his game. From there we discuss why both of these balls are very good, but could be right or wrong for your game.
Soft vs Firm! Fast vs Slow! Spin Increase vs Spin Decrease! So much info and you see all of the swings and all of the data.
This is one you do not want to miss.
One thing I would say about this, is that there are DEFINITELY types of mats that do no justice for a swing.
Fortunately, places like Club Champion and the THP Tech Studio have awesome turf, which allows for performance to play the key role. There’s enough give to square up the ball without a big ricochet.
And that’s with a 7 iron that has been bent strong (probably 2 degrees) to accommodate my dynamic loft.
Imagine the spin numbers on a traditionally lofted 7 iron.
Good to know on mats. My experiences are limited to one type of mat, period. I may also just be a mat "princess and the pea." That wouldn’t surprise me at all.
Also play a ball, not all of them LOL! Imagine playing the first few holes with one of those and then switching to the other. All the sudden all your distances are off.
I suffer/struggle with high spin at times… I’m going to have to try some BRx. I’ve always known the Pro Vs were too spinny for me and had some success with the e6. I’m curious if there is any data base that compares all balls? For example, in comparing the e6 vs. BRx, how much of a difference in spin is there, launch angle, distance, etc. I assume Bridgestone and others don’t provide this type of analysis or data, correct?
Some day it’d still be spinning to this day. But yeah, I can see why you hate wind haha
There may be that kind of information out there, but I am not familiar with it.
This is something I would love to do with all balls, eventually… Although I’d love to include another swing in the mix. The goal of this one was to show the extremes of my experience and really validate the necessity to spend time considering a ball choice, not just clubs and shafts.
I actually felt this a bit two weeks ago in my member/member tournament.
Day 2 is alt-shot and we were using my ball on my drives, and his ball on his drives. My numbers felt a bit off on approach, and this really validated it.
Sorry, follow up question Dan – those speeds are presumably ball speeds. Is your typical swing speed under 105 mph, which is what the BRx claims to be designed for?
baseline driver speed is around 115mph.
You should tell Bridgestone they are underselling themselves!
The guys at Bridgestone are AWESOME!
I told them I would happily be their guinea pig any time haha
I have about the same 7i as you. (total distance 165) I have a adequately step landing angle and tend to land soft on the greens. When i switched to the QST from the Cut Grey, where I saw the most change was with wedge bite on short chips. So I would agree that the QST is playing a roll in your added spin.
I think I speak for all of us out here grinding away trying to chance Dan…(looking at you @Hamfist)….we now find out that you’re a LoftJacker!
I guess it depends on how you perceive loft haha! Do you have a baseline loft on a driver? If I play an 8 degree driver and yours is 11, am I a loft jacker?
If you compare my lofts to that of many irons out in 2020, I’m very much in line. I just happen to have a set of CBs in the bag right now that were more traditionally lofted when they were designed.
Also, I assume you’re joking – but I did enjoy responding
Well, since you are a loft-jacker, I reinstate my demand for you to wear an oven mitt while playing. I’ll allow you to pick which hand.
#girlyhands!! ???
Fixed that.
I hoped that you’d get my joke. And yes I turn my driver up to 11!
I am not sure how this comment relates to the content.
Can you elaborate?
Agree, we would make great test subjects!
i guess the biggest take away for me is the 10 yards you gained with the bridgestone.
a lot of numbers there and understanding what they are but the lower spin and extra yardage gained is why i see your ball is the bridgestone.
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Golf Ball Compression: Spin, Speed and Distance
I guess my comment was geared more towards the distance aspect of the equation, because I think golfers are overly impressed with distance as compared to the other aspects of the golf ball. If my comment doesn’t work for you then oh well.
curious; did you watch the video, or just react to the title?
There is an awful lot more that went into the considerations and creation of this one. That is why I was surprised by the comment. I address peak height, launch angle and spin as my primary considerations for a ball – and yes I touch on distance but it’s hardly the focus and more a footnote.
I personally don’t chase distance or ball speed – I’ve got plenty to give. If I did, I probably wouldn’t play the RX.
I believe that was the point of the entire video, right?
To show that Spin, Speed and Distance are all impacted from compression and that each individual golfer needs to figure out what works best for their game. The changes are dramatic in spin, which is outlined heavily.
That’s awesome! Love to hear that.
I hope you take us along for the ride in each ball thread that you try!!
pretty crazy that a lower compression ball would give you that much extra ball speed. a full club carry and 10 extra feet of peak height means less club and a steeper angle of descent. that’s not something I would walk away from.
this is a pretty cool way to show just how dramatic a change in ball can change launch, spin, and distance. i’d love to see an extended video where a golfer spends time swapping golf shafts, swapping club heads, and swapping golf balls, then analyze the results to see which one contributed to the most overall change.
As the possessor of arguable the slowest swing speed on THP (clocked at a mighty 67 MPH!!) I volunteer to be the low end of the spreadsheet.
my 2 cents….
I keep doing this personally, and won’t clog this thread up much, but it is pretty eye opening to see what attributes change with ball, shaft and head and how much the body adjusts to some aspects.
Seeing a 1200 rpm change in spin, highlighted here is certainly a worthy discussion that is overlooked.
It’s crazy, right? I remember my first trip to Club Champion in Indianapolis, when we started messing with club lofts on MBs and getting the realization that I was trying WAY too hard to normalize my launch (which is high), but rather find ways to promote and leverage it.
Finding a ball that hits it just as high with notably less spin means I don’t have to fear hitting into wind anymore – I can still get solid distance without my ball ballooning or losing all momentum due to spin.
The ball speed numbers surprised me as well – Even from an individual perspective, i hit numerous shots with the ProV1x where I notably said I hit it very well, and still didn’t match. Is that a different take for a different video? I’d argue yes based on the story we’re telling here — and I am sure the chance for driver to be superior in ball speed with the ProV1x is present – But it definitely surprised me in same conditions with same club and same swing quality.
You try these out yet?
I am really, really pleased to read this takeaway!! It’s exactly what I wanted to present (although I would personally defer to carry distance because my ball lands like a pancake haha).
think of all the people who go buy a $400 driver shaft, then spend another $40-$50 on grip, tip and labor, hoping to cure what ails them. when maybe the answer was just changing the ball? that’s certainly not the answer for everyone, but it’s a cheaper experiment!
I actually thought of your ball journey during this testing and editing the video.
You moved to the CSX because of the increase in spin on your approach shots, increasing flight, etc.
Perfect example of where a firmer compression will benefit.
Thanks TCB!
One other thing I wanted to mention for those who are isolating distance as the primary – look at the results with the Tour B RX from an accuracy standpoint and it’s easy to see why I have comfort hitting them. Four of the five shots hit the green, with the fifth being what I would consider a trash can entry into the ball (read: very open face).
This isn’t a test to 120 yard pin. I’m taking that kind of accuracy all day long from 190 yards and cashing it in. The benefits of me getting to use a 7 iron instead of a 6 iron are just icing on the cake (assuming based on carry I would need to bump to my 6 using the ProV1x).
The point I was making is you have a choice to find the best fit for your game. You can go for the 195 yard 7i because the ball still sits and lands soft on greens. I was the opposite for a long time. I’d hit the ball really long but lacked any stopping power because the ball came in shallow. When I recently switched irons, I really focused on descent angle as a key criteria and its paid huge dividends. Now I have flexibility in my ball choice to maximize my game. And there are huge gains to be had by matching up the ball to your game.
Back when I was chasing driver distance, all I looked at was descent angle (sub 40 was a celebration haha). It’s funny how we isolate not just what matters to us, but that it could change club to club (aka driver to iron).
We golfers are curious creatures.
If an average golfer (I realize not everyone would have the same results as Dan and he’s not "average") can get an extra ~10 yards with an iron without sacrificing its ability to hold the green (thanks higher launch), doesn’t that imply that you get to take one less club though? If Dan gets a 175 yard shot with his BRx, he now can take an 8i instead of a 7i, ceteris paribus, he’ll have a better chance to make a more accurate approach shot.
Exactly. It was giving me all I wanted and then some with approach shots. Off the tee I am pretty sure I am giving up some carry yards, but I am still in a good spot so I’m not too worried, but I think I need to get the CS out and compare to see the difference.
Does it matter which number is on the club as long as it gets near the hole? I think you are right and you provide an example of someone on the opposite end of the spectrum from Dan. But the lesson in the video is the same regardless: get fit to a ball that maximizes your game. For Dan, maximizing means less spin. For someone else, its adding spin/launch. For your example of an average swing golfer, maximizing may mean gaining distance without sacrificing hold on greens.
One thing though: A lower number iron isn’t really an indicator of a more accurate approach shot. I prefer the closer you are as a marker that you can be more accurate. For example, from 175 yards Dan may mash a 9i, hit a smooth 8i or 3/4 7i to reach the green. I would guess that given 100 shots, the 8i is actually going to be the most accurate over the 9i as he is swinging more in control.