Paint Fill Tools
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And...and take extra care you have something nonporous underneath and extended well around your work area. Speak from bad experience of not taking enough precaution with that. The littlest bit that gets on any surface and left, will deface said surface in some form or another. It is strong.
Edit: Sorry Dan...quoted wrong post...meant to grab this one
tylerthornton
Member
I tried the green version of klean strip paint thinner and it did absolutely nothing as far as removing the original paint. Citri-strip gel is up next!
dhartmann34
Well-known member
Dev,
Did you ever get this done? I'd like to fill in the alignment line on mine. How did it work out?
Did you ever get this done? I'd like to fill in the alignment line on mine. How did it work out?
just a hacker
Certified Hacker
This is my first attempt at paint fill:
I used 100% acetone finger nail polish remover and a needle to remove the blue paint. It took some digging to get it all out. I then tried red Testors paint and toothpicks to fill it back in but I could not control the amount of paint going into the grooves and they were small and I ended up just covering the area. I let the paint dry for a few hours and then tried using the acetone to clean it up while trying to keep it out of the black paint areas. That is easier said than done so I ended up masking off the black areas. I never could figure out a way to get just the excess paint off. Just keep removing it all pretty much. Same with the swirl on the face. Masked it off to keep paint out of the mesh but never could keep any paint in the swirl. So I cleaned it all out and found a Sharpie oil based paint pen with an extra fine point. Much better results this time. I also switched the clean-up to non acetone polish remover and things worked out much better with that.
Next up will be changing over my Metal X Milled 2-Ball to red paint fill. If I can find someone who's done it already and can tell me what to remove the existing yellow paint without harming the black finish, then I'l get it started. Anyone done it and know for sure?
I used 100% acetone finger nail polish remover and a needle to remove the blue paint. It took some digging to get it all out. I then tried red Testors paint and toothpicks to fill it back in but I could not control the amount of paint going into the grooves and they were small and I ended up just covering the area. I let the paint dry for a few hours and then tried using the acetone to clean it up while trying to keep it out of the black paint areas. That is easier said than done so I ended up masking off the black areas. I never could figure out a way to get just the excess paint off. Just keep removing it all pretty much. Same with the swirl on the face. Masked it off to keep paint out of the mesh but never could keep any paint in the swirl. So I cleaned it all out and found a Sharpie oil based paint pen with an extra fine point. Much better results this time. I also switched the clean-up to non acetone polish remover and things worked out much better with that.
Next up will be changing over my Metal X Milled 2-Ball to red paint fill. If I can find someone who's done it already and can tell me what to remove the existing yellow paint without harming the black finish, then I'l get it started. Anyone done it and know for sure?
This is my first attempt at paint fill:
I used 100% acetone finger nail polish remover and a needle to remove the blue paint. It took some digging to get it all out. I then tried red Testors paint and toothpicks to fill it back in but I could not control the amount of paint going into the grooves and they were small and I ended up just covering the area. I let the paint dry for a few hours and then tried using the acetone to clean it up while trying to keep it out of the black paint areas. That is easier said than done so I ended up masking off the black areas. I never could figure out a way to get just the excess paint off. Just keep removing it all pretty much. Same with the swirl on the face. Masked it off to keep paint out of the mesh but never could keep any paint in the swirl. So I cleaned it all out and found a Sharpie oil based paint pen with an extra fine point. Much better results this time. I also switched the clean-up to non acetone polish remover and things worked out much better with that.
Next up will be changing over my Metal X Milled 2-Ball to red paint fill. If I can find someone who's done it already and can tell me what to remove the existing yellow paint without harming the black finish, then I'l get it started. Anyone done it and know for sure?
Looks good! One trick I learned, if you're using a toothpick for paint fill, it's ok if it overflows out of the area you're trying to fill. Just immediately wipe over it (very lightly) with a Kleenex dipped in acetone. The excess paint is removed, and the paint fill in the grooves stays in place. Trick is to run the Kleenex lightly, so as not to remove the paint you want in the grooves. I've done quite a few different clubs this way.
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oneunder311
New member
Finished my irons and wedges today.
And citri strip is key to get the old paint off. I tried an aerosol paint stripper and it did nothing. Citri strip left on over night then a needle to get the rest worked well.
Enamel paint and epoxy afterwards to make sure it lasts.
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- Admin
- #2,883
Looking good.
Six4three5
Tour Star...Layin' Up!
My "Masters/THP" J40's
Thanks again to Doug-J4U!!
Thanks again to Doug-J4U!!
Did my new vokeys last night
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Those look fantastic!
Will you just do it already?!? I dare you.
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- #2,890
Well played GregDan. Well played indeed.
It would be so good.
Six4three5
Tour Star...Layin' Up!
Decided I'm going to keep the stock grips on the J15 MB's so for paintfill decided I'd go with a little Augusta theme. These are gunna have to sit awhile to dry.
Six4three5
Tour Star...Layin' Up!
Have to redo the B's tonight. Going to get a finer tip brush or try a tooth brush, but really happy with how "forged" came out.Decided I'm going to keep the stock grips on the J15 MB's so for paintfill decided I'd go with a little Augusta theme. These are gunna have to sit awhile to dry.
twentytwomonk
#enabler
Looks awesome. I just did the same thing with my mFGP.
And I just did my first experiment with paint fill bottles as opposed to brushes. Wow, what a difference, and done in half the time. I can't wait for the rest of the bottles I ordered to show up!
And I just did my first experiment with paint fill bottles as opposed to brushes. Wow, what a difference, and done in half the time. I can't wait for the rest of the bottles I ordered to show up!
Decided I'm going to keep the stock grips on the J15 MB's so for paintfill decided I'd go with a little Augusta theme. These are gunna have to sit awhile to dry.
What are you guys using for the larger voids/engravings to get the paint in there? I've generally just used a toothpick, but thinking that may not be sufficient for the 'H' on the back of my Hopkins...
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- #2,897
What are you using bottle-wise?
twentytwomonk
#enabler
I'll take pics when I get home, but the bottles I have now have needle attachments that go on top of the plastic nozzle. The new bottles I have ordered have the thinner metal nozzle actually attached to the cap.
The ones I have now are a PITA, but they work so much better than brushes. The paint comes out so much cleaner and smoother, aside from the few little bubbles I got in my first try. I'm sure it'll get better with practice.
I think filling the "B" would be sort of like doing the RST on a SeeMore. When I did mine, I dipped a toothpick in the paint and let it drip in the area I wanted in then spread it around a little. Once I had enough in there to cover the entire area, I let it dry. The only bad part is that if you get some outside of the intended area, it is very tedious work to get it looking right. Most of the time I just started over in this case.
- Moderator
- #2,900
Six4Three5 got this advice last night and scoffed at it hahahaha!
It's true though, I much prefer being patient with a toothpick over the smear method. Comes out waaaay cleaner.