TaylorMade Releases RocketBallz RBZ Driver & Tour Driver

sharkwrestler

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somy neighbor hit the tp version of this at galaxy...after some warmups on the sim he was hitting them 315...i called bs and laughed at the sim knowing he hit a long tee ball....so the guy through him on the launch monitor...he was hitting it only 304 lol was absolutely killing it...now i think he is in love
Good one only 304.:D
 

aslxa

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This is a relatively higher-spinning head (certainly versus the R11 and R11s), which actually fits most amateurs better if they are just buying off the shelf and not getting fitted (people tend to choose too low of loft and at least with a higher spinning head they get a little more carry plus a little more forgiveness off center. I'm just sick about the 46" inch stock shaft - we have never and I mean never fit anyone for a shaft over 45". I hate seeing people walk out the door with a club that they will probably spray quite a bit with one bomb every now and then.

Wonder if this is a high-spin head, or if the shaft is generating a bit of it. High spin doesn't mix with my swing...I'm really liking my choice of driver at the moment, but still interested in the RBZ 3W. Will definitely go to my GG and hit this, however, just because I'm curious.
 

aslxa

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I'll answer this as a fitter with recognition that no one answer is correct for everyone. However, I would suspect that a beginning golfer would lose a lot of shots with a 46" shafted driver. We did not fit anyone over 45" last year and we had many more in the 43" to 43.5" category than 45".

To the guys who already had a chance to hit this driver. Do you think this one would be good for someone who just started with golf about 4 months ago and doesn't have a driver yet? The longest club i have is a Cleveland CG Black 5 Wood Regular Flex.
 

v.man

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That is exactly the advice my fitter gave me when he yanked the TM Superfast out of my hands. The longer shaft was killing my dispersion, and with my new, properly fitted driver, I'm rarely missing the fairway these days.
 

Wilscherer

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I hit the Taylormade RBZ 3 Hybrid yesterday (1-28-2012) at my local Golf Galaxy, I thought it was a very nice club. I brought my current 3H and was hitting it around 210 and with the RBZ I was consistently hitting it 225-235 yards! It felt like a huge difference. I will be going back this friday for the launch to get this club and to try out the fairway woods.
 

Kujan

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I'll answer this as a fitter with recognition that no one answer is correct for everyone. However, I would suspect that a beginning golfer would lose a lot of shots with a 46" shafted driver. We did not fit anyone over 45" last year and we had many more in the 43" to 43.5" category than 45".
How do you figure the best club length for a golfer? Do you configure the club length based on the golfer's height? If yes, I'm 5'10", what driver length would be a good?
 

mikedean441

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aslxa

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Rather than height, my starting point would be your wrist to floor (WTF) measurement - but this is only a starting point in conjunction with looking at your impact with your current driver. If the impact tape supports the rough WTF starting point, I would put together something in that length. The idea that 45" (or even 45"+) is the standard length is only true of the last decade with the advent of lighter graphite shafts and the larger heads. As late as the late 1990s, most golfers were hitting 43" to 43.5" drivers.


How do you figure the best club length for a golfer? Do you configure the club length based on the golfer's height? If yes, I'm 5'10", what driver length would be a good?
 

INgolfer

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Man after the PGA show and reading all the feedback and info about the RBZ line I will definitely be trying them out this year! It sounds like the claims made by the marketing department are true, and people really are seeing some big distance gains.
 

Ole Gray

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Rather than height, my starting point would be your wrist to floor (WTF) measurement - but this is only a starting point in conjunction with looking at your impact with your current driver. If the impact tape supports the rough WTF starting point, I would put together something in that length. The idea that 45" (or even 45"+) is the standard length is only true of the last decade with the advent of lighter graphite shafts and the larger heads. As late as the late 1990s, most golfers were hitting 43" to 43.5" drivers.
If I decided to go with one of the new RBZ drivers it would have to be cut down to at least 44.5. Now with the R11S driver you can add weight to get the balance back but how would you correct the shaft trimming for a RBZ?
 

Kujan

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Good question ole gray. In other words does cutting down the shaft and inch or two foul it up?
 

Ole Gray

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Good question ole gray. In other words does cutting down the shaft and inch or two foul it up?
With my current driver which is 44.5 I ordered a weight kit that has six different weights with it which is a great idea. Personally I wish all new drivers came with the weight kit option to chance the swing weight. It seems like it would be a pretty easy aid for the companies to offer the consumers.
 

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Where do those weights go? Seems like if your cutting down the shaft that you'd want to add weight near the grip.
 

Kmac

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Maybe if you cut this driver down to 44" or 44.5" you can add one of those Bocceiri grips to it to bring the swing weight up or balance it out
 

Kujan

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Won't cutting down the shaft also make it stiffer?
 

Ole Gray

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Where do those weights go? Seems like if your cutting down the shaft that you'd want to add weight near the grip.
With the R11 driver you add the weight to the sides/back of the clubhead. The torque wrench you receive to change the loft/lie also works to add or subtract weight to the club. It's a great idea. You can also use lead tape to a driver head however to me, it's a non attractive option.
 

aslxa

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It really depends on whether or not you are going to make up the swingweight you lose when you cut the shaft. If we assume the RBZ at 46" with a D4 SW (TM's number) then once you cut off 1.5", you'll have a SW around C5. If you are not sensitive to that, you could leave the setup alone and see very little difference in shaft performance. You may, however, see a decreased launch angle from the original 46" shaft - this is not universal but common due to the shorter swing arc. If you add the weight back on the head with lead tape, you'll need about 18 grams which would soften your shaft almost a full flex. If you go with a heavier than stock shaft, you will gain 1 SW point per 9 grams of additional shaft weight. You can also tinker with grip weight but I have not found that effective with my customers. Please note SW is only a number and not something you may be sensitive to!

Honestly, I would not see the RBZ as a good head for that length of driver.


If I decided to go with one of the new RBZ drivers it would have to be cut down to at least 44.5. Now with the R11S driver you can add weight to get the balance back but how would you correct the shaft trimming for a RBZ?
 

Ole Gray

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It really depends on whether or not you are going to make up the swingweight you lose when you cut the shaft. If we assume the RBZ at 46" with a D4 SW (TM's number) then once you cut off 1.5", you'll have a SW around C5. If you are not sensitive to that, you could leave the setup alone and see very little difference in shaft performance. You may, however, see a decreased launch angle from the original 46" shaft - this is not universal but common due to the shorter swing arc. If you add the weight back on the head with lead tape, you'll need about 18 grams which would soften your shaft almost a full flex. If you go with a heavier than stock shaft, you will gain 1 SW point per 9 grams of additional shaft weight. You can also tinker with grip weight but I have not found that effective with my customers. Please note SW is only a number and not something you may be sensitive to!

Honestly, I would not see the RBZ as a good head for that length of driver.
I appreciate your reply and you know your stuff :clapp:
 

aslxa

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You are welcome - good luck on the search. BTW, that 910 head you have now is one of the best to play with at sub 45" lengths of the current OEMs given the weight and loft adjustability.
I appreciate your reply and you know your stuff :clapp:
 

mikedean441

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You are welcome - good luck on the search. BTW, that 910 head you have now is one of the best to play with at sub 45" lengths of the current OEMs given the weight and loft adjustability.
good to know, in case I gotta start chopping!
 

Kujan

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If you add the weight back on the head with lead tape, you'll need about 18 grams which would soften your shaft almost a full flex.
So is that 12 grams per inch cut off?

Say I want to go from the factory club length 46 to 44 (take 2 inches off the shaft). Would I put 24 grams of lead tape on the head?

If I did this with a regular flex would it remain regular after applying the lead tape?

If no, could I start with a stiff flex, apply the lead tape, and end up with a regular flex?
 

Kujan

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imscottr

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I'm kind of jealous of those of you who have hit this. I've stopped by three local shops, (Galaxy, Smith, mom/pop) and none of them had this or the R11 S to try. The local Galaxy is having a mid-night release on the 3rd, which I think is a little quirky, but who am I? Anyway - I'm a little anxious to give this a try against my 2.0. I'm in the market for a new 3 wood too, so my expectations are a little high for that as well.

Curious as to whether there will be any different shaft offerings with this.
 

aslxa

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I think that chart is a little light as it does not match up to our experience - you really have to weigh each of the components if you want to be exact. You would "weaken" your shaft flex by a full flex even with just 16 grams. You can see with that amount of lead tape why we usually use component driver heads which can be tip weighted and often come heavier for shorter builds. Most OEM heads just do not weigh enough (except for the weight adjustable). There are a few others that weigh out pretty heavy - the Ping G20 has been coming at 205 grams and one of the Cobras (either the LV4 or 5) was also in that ballpark. Heads in the low to mid 190s, which you need to build at 46", are a problem at 44".


http://www.golf-components.com/swing-weight-chart-woods.html

According to this chart if I went from 46 to 44 I'd have to add 16 grams to keep it at D4.
 

Kujan

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Heads in the low to mid 190s, which you need to build at 46", are a problem at 44".
I see your point. It is disappointing as I had my eye on that RBZ! What about the R11? That can be had for $300.

Interesting about the G20 head being on the heavier side. What about the G15 that I have. Is that heavy enough to cut down 1.75 inches to 44?

O yeah also, what about the RBZ tour - is it heavy enough to cut down?
 
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